Engagement Rings & Weddings
Bernard James, the Reluctant Engagement Ring Designer, Stays True to His Art
Discover how designer Bernard James redefines engagement rings with
bespoke artistry.
June 30, 2024
Photographed by: Miller Lyle
Written by: Grant Mobley
For Bernard James, designing jewelry has always been about creative control. From the moment he launched his eponymous brand, he envisioned crafting pieces on his terms: designs that pushed boundaries, reflected individuality, and lived as wearable works of art. His collections have become synonymous with modern chic and earned him a reputation as one of the most exciting designers emerging in fine jewelry.
As his brand grew, so did an unexpected demand for custom natural diamond engagement rings. It wasn’t that he wasn’t capable, but he was hesitant to step into a category where tradition often overshadows innovation. Bridal jewelry design has long been dictated by convention. Classic solitaires, three-stone rings, and halo settings are beautiful but usually leave little room for a designer’s distinct voice. For someone like James, who thrives on originality, the idea of being boxed into tradition wasn’t exciting.
Meet the Expert
- Grant Mobley is the Jewelry & Watch Editor of Only Natural Diamonds.
- He is a GIA Diamonds Graduate.
- He has over 17 years of jewelry industry experience, starting with growing up in his family’s retail jewelry stores.
But something shifted. Now, years into his career and with a newly opened Brooklyn storefront, James has reconsidered his approach to engagement rings, not by conforming to tradition but by reshaping it entirely.
James’s journey into fine jewelry wasn’t typical. Growing up in Brooklyn, he was inspired by brands that built tight-knit communities around their products and understood that fashion was a form of self-expression. He wanted to design something personal and universal that could be worn daily yet still hold deep meaning. Jewelry, as it turned out, was the perfect medium.
What began as a small, self-funded endeavor slowly gained momentum. James’s early creations caught the eye of friends and industry insiders, drawing attention to their unique aesthetic. However, when clients started requesting custom diamond engagement rings, he found himself reluctant to dive into the world of bridal jewelry.
“For a long time, I thought engagement rings had to look a certain way,” he tells Only Natural Diamonds. “And because of that, I wasn’t sure how much of my own design language I could really bring into them.”
To James, the thought of producing traditional bridal settings felt creatively limiting. He wasn’t interested in simply setting diamonds in designs based on a client’s vision but wanted to tell a story through a design that fit the Bernard James brand. As more couples sought him out specifically for his perspective, he realized there was an opportunity to reinterpret bridal jewelry and a way to elevate diamond engagement rings beyond tradition while still honoring the significance behind them.
Sometimes, designing a ring is like being part therapist. I have to listen between the lines.
“When I take on a custom engagement ring, it’s never about just making something that looks like what’s already out there,” he explains. “It’s about creating something that reflects the essence of the person wearing it.”
His philosophy is evident in the engagement rings he’s created. They draw inspiration from his core collections while remaining deeply personal to each client. James shares, “Last year, I designed an engagement ring for one of my closest and oldest friends. He wanted a piece that reflected both my signature design language and the unique life journey of his soon-to-be fiancée. Even though we’ve known each other for nearly 20 years, the process gave me a deeper understanding—not just of her, but of their union as a whole.”
James explains the design, saying, “We created a fully bespoke Flora engagement ring, incorporating two signature flowers from the collection alongside a one-of-a-kind Maxi Lotus flower – a quiet nod to her heritage. We set it with a VVS-quality fancy yellow round cut diamond. The result felt deeply personal and symbolic and could not be a better embodiment of who they are as people – complex, engaging, and awe-inspiring.” He continues, “We also designed custom wedding bands to complement the engagement ring. His band featured Flora elements, with nods to his German Jamaican heritage, while hers was a delicate wrap style, inspired by interwoven roots.”
Reminiscing on presenting the rings, he shares, “During their wedding ceremony in Hong Kong, they tasked me with presenting the rings at the altar—something I was honored to do and that felt like a true culmination of our shared history, creativity, and friendship.”
“Sometimes, designing a ring is like being part therapist. I have to listen between the lines—clients may think they want one thing, but what truly excites them is often something completely different,” James laughs.
The balance between design, sentiment, and artistry has transformed his perception of engagement rings. But just because he’s embraced bridal work doesn’t mean he’s taking on every commission.
“As the brand has grown, I’ve learned to be more discerning about who I work with,” he says. “Custom projects take an enormous amount of time and energy. I want to ensure that if I’m putting that effort in, it’s for something that truly reflects what I believe in as a designer.”
This mindset allows James to stay true to his artistic vision and ensures that every engagement ring he creates reflects his aesthetic as much as it celebrates the couple wearing it.
In the past year, James has taken one of the most significant leaps of his career: opening his first retail space in Brooklyn. Before this, his brand existed largely online, with private studio appointments being the primary way clients interacted with his work. But as demand grew, so did the need for a space that felt more open, experiential, and intimate.
“The store wasn’t just about selling jewelry,” he explains. “It was about creating a place where people could experience the brand in a tangible way.”
The boutique is tucked into a residential area of Brooklyn’s Greenpoint neighborhood and reflects Bernard’s signature aesthetic—warm, personal, and thoughtfully curated. It has helped him connect more deeply with his clients and expand his business in new ways.
James’s jewelry can now be found at major retailers like Saks and Moda Operandi and select luxury boutiques like Dover Street Market. Despite his expanding presence, he remains intensely hands-on with every aspect of his brand, from design to production to the final presentation of each piece.
As James looks toward the future, his focus is on balance. He wants to continue growing the brand without losing the style and personal touch that makes his work special. Wholesale partnerships will remain selective and carefully curated. New bridal designs will emerge, not as a departure from his signature collections, but as a natural evolution of them. And while custom engagement rings will always be part of his brand, they’ll be approached with the same intention and artistry that defines everything he creates.
For someone who once resisted designing engagement rings, Bernard has found a way to make them his own. In doing so, he’s proving that bridal jewelry doesn’t have to be traditional to be timeless.
The reluctant engagement ring designer? Maybe. But one thing is sure: when Bernard James takes on a project, he gives it everything—and the results speak for themselves.
