The History of Engagement Rings
Diamonds have been the ultimate symbol of love for centuries. Learn more about the significance and timeless appeal of the diamond engagement ring with this excerpt from The History of Diamond Engagement Rings: A True Romance by Marion Fasel.
When Did Diamond Engagement Rings Become Popular?
While it’s commonly believed that natural diamond engagement rings gained popularity in 1947 with De Beers’ iconic “A Diamond Is Forever” marketing campaign, diamond engagement rings have a much older history. In fact, they became widespread well before the 20th century. As early as 1890, Tiffany & Co. made diamond engagement rings accessible to American couples through mail-order catalogs sent to homes across America, helping to popularize the tradition. By the 1920s, during Hollywood’s silent film era, these rings frequently appeared on screen, serving as instantly recognizable symbols of love and commitment. But the custom stretches even further back in time, with diamond rings worn steadily for centuries.
1477
Portrait of Duchess Mary of Burgundy (1457-1482), c. 1500. Found in the collection of Ambras Castle, Innsbruck. Artist : Reiser, Niklas. (Photo by Fine Art Images/Heritage Images/Getty Images)
15th-19th Centuries
A diamond, gold and enamel Renaissance Revival Ring made during the 19th century.(PHOTO © VICTORIA & ALBERT MUSEUM, LONDON)
1781
Thomas Gainsborough Portrait of Queen Charlotte and her King Charles Spaniel Painted around 1781. ( ©ROYAL COLLECTION TRUST)
1886
Tiffany Setting engagement rings with a variety of mountings including rose and yellow gold, platinum and diamonds.(PHOTO COURTESY OF TIFFANY & CO.)
1930
Portrait of Norma Shearer, glamorous American actress wearing her Marquise-Cut Diamond Engagement Ring. (Getty Images)
1947
Princess Elizabeth and Prince Philip, Duke of Edinburgh at Buckingham Palace, London shortly after they announced their engagement in July 1947. (Getty Images)
1956
Actress Grace Kelly wore her own Cartier diamond engagement ring in High Society, 1956. (Getty Images)
1957
2003
Ben Affleck and his fiance Jennifer Lopez arrive at the premiere of “Daredevil” at the Village Theatre on February 9, 2003 in Los Angeles, California. (Getty Images)
2004
Seal and Heidi Klum who is wearing her yellow diamond engagement ring at the 2004 World Music Awards in Las Vegas. (Getty Images)
2017
From “The Bachelorette,” Bryan Abasolo with Rachel Lindsay who is wearing her Neil Lane engagement ring in 2017. (Getty Images)
2020
Colin Jost and Scarlett Johansson attend the 26th Annual Screen Actors Guild Awards on January 19, 2020 in Los Angeles, California. (Getty Images)
2022
Jennifer Lopez recieves the MTV Generation Award on stage during the MTV Movie and TV Awards in Santa Monica, California, June 5, 2022. (Getty Images)
The Origins of Diamond Engagement Rings
The origins of diamond engagement rings go back even further. From the beginning, sometime in the 15th century—and no one knows exactly when—diamond rings evolved from a status symbol worn primarily by men, a concept with roots in antiquity, to engagement rings given to women and, in some cases, men. Evidence of this shift comes from paintings, historical documents, and rare surviving jewels. In earlier times, engagement rings were referred to as betrothal rings or wedding rings, but their significance remained the same. From the start, the focus was always on the diamond.
During the Renaissance, diamonds in engagement rings symbolized eternal love and the resilience of a strong relationship. Rare and precious, the gem also conveyed the significance of a power couple. One of the earliest representations of diamond engagement rings can be seen in A Goldsmith in His Shop (1449), a Northern Renaissance masterpiece by Petrus Christus. The painting depicts a couple acquiring gold wedding bands—then the traditional choice—while, on a shelf nearby, a box of rings with point-cut diamonds is visible. At the time, diamonds were painted black in art because their pyramidal shape did not reflect much light, unlike later faceted gemstones. These early diamonds were prized for their symmetry, mirror-like surfaces, and extraordinary hardness.
One of the earliest documented diamond engagement rings linked to a specific couple was given by Costanzo Sforza, Lord of Pesaro, to Camilla d’Aragona of Naples in May 1475. Sforza, from one of Italy’s most powerful ruling families, presented a point-cut diamond ring, which was later illustrated in a manuscript chronicling their four-day wedding celebration near the Adriatic Sea. A poem read during the nuptials proclaimed, “Two wills, two hearts, two passions are bonded in one marriage by a diamond.”
Archduke Maximilian of Austria and Mary of Burgundy
In 1477, the Archduke Maximilian of Austria gave Mary of Burgundy the diamond engagement ring depicted in a portrait by Niklas Reiser. The painting has led people to mistakenly believe it was the first diamond engagement ring in history. It wasn’t, but a true narrative about the lovers involves letters written by the young archduke.
The correspondence was one of the ways he won over the coveted hand of Mary, who had inherited the extensive Burgundian lands upon the death of her father, Charles the Bold. When the time came to propose, Maximilian popped the question with a diamond ring. While the archduke was clearly a romantic, an advisor suggested the idea for the jewel in a detailed message that read: “At the betrothal, Your Grace must have a ring set with a diamond and also a gold ring.”
This statement led Tiffany’s esteemed gemologist, George Frederick Kunz, to conclude in his 1917 book, Rings for the Finger: From the Earliest Known Time to the Present: “The use of a diamond ring for betrothals seems to have been general toward the end of the 15th century, for royal personages at least, to judge from a letter written from Ghent on July 30, 1477, by Dr. Wilhelm Moroltinger.”
In other words, Dr. Moroltinger, Maximilian’s advisor, wasn’t the first to suggest a diamond ring for a marriage proposal—it was already somewhat expected among the elites.
The Reiser portrait of Mary, painted a couple of decades after her death at age 25 in a riding accident, shows the diamond solitaire on her right hand. Engagement rings were customarily worn on the second or third finger of either the right or left hand, as it was believed that one or both fingers contained veins—vena amoris (vein of love)—that connected to the heart.
This tradition dates back to Ancient Rome and Egypt. Simple wedding bands were worn by ancient Romans and Egyptians, long before there was full knowledge of the circulatory system. While no such vein actually exists, wearing an engagement ring on the third finger of the left hand (often called the ring finger) remains a constant tradition for many brides.
Gimmel Rings
During the 16th and 17th centuries, gimmel rings, which had been worn for hundreds of years, became a popular engagement ring design. Designed in various forms, some featured a point-cut diamond and a fede motif—two hands clasped together to symbolize the union of marriage. Other examples incorporated a table-cut diamond and a ruby, representing commitment and passion.
These rings were composed of two, and occasionally three, interlocking bands that fit together to form a puzzle ring. Romantic messages engraved on the interior sides of the bands were only visible when the ring was opened. One phrase that routinely appeared on gimmel rings came from the wedding ceremony: “What God has joined together, let no man put asunder.”
When a couple became engaged, the rings were separated, with the groom wearing one half and the bride the other. In designs that included a third ring, it is believed to have been worn by a witness to the marriage before the wedding. During the wedding ceremony, the groom reattached the rings and placed them on the bride’s finger, symbolizing their union.
Modern Day Famous Diamond Engagement Rings
High-profile women—from Elizabeth Barrett Browning and Elizabeth Taylor to Beyoncé and Jennifer Lopez—have long influenced engagement ring trends. Some rings inspire generations of couples, while others redefine jewelry design itself. Interestingly, the engagement ring has never been an official part of a wedding ceremony—that honor belongs to the wedding band, traditionally exchanged with the words, “With this ring, I thee wed.” Instead, the engagement ring is a symbol of promise and intention, often presented with the heartfelt question, “Will you marry me?” Though sometimes chosen after the proposal, its significance remains unchanged—it embodies dreams of a shared future.
One detail that has never shifted is the tendency of the newly engaged to subtly (or not-so-subtly) show off their rings. How that tradition plays out can be seen throughout the pages of this book. While every love story is unique, one truth remains: the diamond engagement ring is one of the most enduring symbols of love in jewelry history.
Read More About the History of Engagement Rings
The History of Diamond Engagement Rings: A True Romance traces the evolution of this cherished tradition. From the beginning, the solitaire has been the prevailing style. The book’s timeline explores diamond-cutting techniques and trends over the ages, showcasing intricate craftsmanship that often goes unnoticed due to its miniature scale. Some styles fade quickly, while others endure for generations, their timeless appeal making them feel almost eternal. Custom creations, each entirely unique, also play a fascinating role in this story.
