A trip to Las Vegas for the COUTURE show is a true jewelry pilgrimage. After all, the annual curated trade fair brings in talent from far corners of the world. This year, in particular, we were particularly smitten by the treasure trove of new designs from a handful of Indian designers and brands. Read on to see which Indian jewelry designers to know and the pieces to covet most of all.
Jaipur-based Indian jewelry house Amrapali relies on fancy-colored diamonds to infuse glamour into heritage-driven statement pieces. On white gold earrings and necklaces, diamond briolette fringe dances its way to your heart; Amrapali’s gorgeous diamond choker set with rose cut diamonds on rhodium plated yellow gold (and backed with foil) transforms into a bracelet, ensuring it doesn’t always stay in your safe. Look for the house’s signature lotus motif popping up on earrings and rings in endearing ways and a collection of pieces using polki diamonds.
2. Bapalal Keshavlal
Founded by Bapalal Mehta, Bapalal Keshavlal is a legacy Mumbai-based jewelry brand currently helmed by the younger generation. Their latest diamond offerings consist of lovely Victorian-inspired slim dangler earrings and stackable bangles with pavé set diamonds. Other pieces from Bapalal Keshavlal that caught our attention include a beautiful necklace featuring mixed-cut diamonds and a floral motif-inspired white and fancy colored yellow diamond bracelet. Of course the brand’s signature best sellers, including their white diamond bracelet that wraps around the wrist like the feathers of a peacock are definitely worth a double take.
Milan Choksi, Founder of Mumbai-based Moksh, reimagines Mughal inspirations in an utterly modern, wearable way. Teeny tiny Japanese keshi pearls are strung together with needle and thread into arresting patterns, and then accented with diamonds and colored gems. Thin baguette cut diamonds are set in art deco or arabesque patterns to create exquisite danglers, huggies and pendants. The Jodhpur collection takes its design cues from architecture: an array of stunning earrings from the Jodhpur collection draws on the intricate jaali (perforated lattice architectural elements) structures from the Mehrangarh Fort. At large, styles have the layer and stack vibe down pat.
Hong Kong-based Saboo Fine Jewels recently expanded its collection to include modern pieces that leverage on the brand’s heritage and craftsmanship. What to expect: the sparkle of white diamonds set against a backdrop of blackened white gold in a series of statement earrings and rings; geometric motifs captivating, contrasting jewels; plus gems combined with fancy colored diamond or white diamonds.
5. Studio Renn
Founded in 2018 by husband-wife duo Rahul and Roshni Jhaveri, Studio Renn draws on atypical inspirations for design: reflections, volume and air gaps. Blackened gold, high gloss finishes and cleaved octahedral rough diamonds make their work instantly recognizable. The Mumbai-based Indian jewelry designers’ latest exploration, Cacti, is a study on abstraction with diamonds precariously set between serrated edges, exposed fragile corners of princess cut and French cut diamonds—all of which lend an unmissable fierceness to the design.
6. Sutra Jewels
Designer Arpita Navlakha, founder of Sutra Jewels, shares her love of fancy-colored diamonds through an assortment of new creations. Rough diamond slices in organic shapes and earthy tones of pale browns, darker browns, soft yellows are all hemmed in by white diamonds. Styled into studs, danglers and chandeliers, the new sliced diamond earrings are set in yellow or white gold and create a festive mood; talk about Zoom-friendly pieces.
New York-based industrial designer-turned-jeweler Heena Shah is obsessed equally with gemstones and natural diamonds, which she uses in stunning statement bracelets, earrings, studs and rings; styles set with Paraiba tourmalines and diamonds have made Valani particularly red-carpet worthy. The designer also has a penchant for making daily wearable diamond jewels cool—check out her tennis bracelets with invisible settings and her lightweight staples, which can be stacked for the ultimate wrist party.