Time for Takeoff
Discover debut collections from the Emerging Diamonds Designer Initiative class of 2023.
For new designers, presenting a debut collection can be both daunting and exciting. And the mixed emotions certainly applied to the Emerging Designers Diamond Initiative class of 2023, who had the honor of debuting their first collection with the program at JCK/Luxury, one of the country’s biggest jewelry trade shows. “Part of it was surreal, being that it’s all my designs—it’s what I want to make; it’s what I like to see,” says Amina Sorel, whose background is in bespoke and custom jewelry.
“I knew it was going to be very intense,” Rosario Navia, another class member, recalls. “But the energy that you get when you’re there is amazing and meeting other creatives and people in the industry was super beneficial. Getting feedback on our collections was amazing.”
And now, consumers can officially make these pieces their own with each of the designers’ collections available to shop on trusted retailers like Greenwich St. Jewelers, Marissa Collections starting October 14th and The Jewelry Edit later this fall as well as luxury e-commerce websites like Moda Operandi (available now) and 1st Dibs. 1st Dibs has also donated a grant that will be distributed among the designers to help with design and production and will be carrying a year-long storefront dedicated to each designer.
Rosario Navia
Mara Single Drop Earring II, $8,400, modaoperandi.com
Mara Large Curved Ring, $3,400, greenwichjewelers.com
Diamond Mara Stud Earring I, $2,500, greenwichjewelers.com
Mara Folded Link Choker III, $57,000, 1stdibs.com
Mara Ear Cuff, $4,200, modaoperandi.com
Mara Folded Link Bracelet, $16,200, modaoperandi.com
Mara Folded Link Choker II, $27,200, modaoperandi.com
Mara Folded Link Bracelet III, $27,000, 1stdibs.com
Mara Large Link Ring, $19,500, 1stdibs.com
Mara Small Folded Link Pendant, $5,700, greenwichjewelers.com
Mara Drop Earring I, $12,000, marissacollections.com
Mara Medium Curved Ring II, $4,980, marissacollections.com
Mara Single Stud Earring, $2,400, modaoperandi.com
Mara Medium Curved Ring I, $8,600, marissacollections.com
Mara Medium Folded Link Pendant I, $7,900, marissacollections.com.
The EDDI designers were all hand-selected to participate in the program, which provides BIPOC designers access to industry resources, a mentoring program with legendary designers like Lorraine Schwartz, a diamond credit, and of course the opportunity to present their collection at JCK/Luxury.
it was amazing being able to work with suppliers I wouldn’t have even known about if it wasn’t for NDC.
Leading up to the trade show, the designers—with support from their mentors and the Natural Diamond Council’s connections to diamond dealers—put in the hard work, time and dedication needed to create beautiful and cohesive collections… “My mentor [Eva Fehren] has been instrumental in introducing me to someone that I started to work with,” says designer Bernard James. “Plus, it was amazing being able to work with some of the suppliers that I wouldn’t have even known about if it wasn’t for NDC.”
Bernard James
Process Crushed Link Necklace, $54,500, 1stdibs.com
Pave Flora Helios Ring, $4,390, modaoperandi.com
Empty Tears Single Earring, $5,900, greenwichjewelers.com
Pave Flora Daisy Ring, $2,950, 1stdibs.com
Empty Tears Pendant, $3,650, greenwichjewelers.com
Pavé Flora Posy Charm Necklace, $9,590, marissacollections.com
Pave Flora Lily Ring, $2,450, marissacollections.com
Pavé Flora Spina Ring, $6,750, marissacollections.com
Spectrum Tennis Bracelet, $21,500, modaoperandi.com
Anatomy Emerald Cut Pendant, $26,500, modaoperandi.com
Pavé Flora Sunflower Bracelet, $4,450 marissacollections.com
Diamond Process Drop Single Earring, $16,500, greenwichjewelers.com
Pavé Flora Lily Necklace, $2,990, marissacollections.com
Pavé Diamond Spina Midi Earrings, $5,650, 1stdibs.com
Various Shapes Diamond Anatomy Tennis Necklace, $26,500, greenwichjewelers.com
Pavé Flora Daisy Earrings, $1,890, marissacollections.com
Diamond Process 3-Stone Ring, $9,900, greenwichjewelers.com
Pavé Diamond Spina Nano Earring, $1,695, 1stdibs.com
While some of the designers have previously worked with natural diamonds, for others this was a career first. “Once you start working with [natural stones] you have a true appreciation for the industry,” muses Symoné Currie of Metal x Wire. “When you realize this diamond has been here before you and now you get to adorn it, it’s a part of the storytelling.”
Gwen Beloti has a similar sentiment: “Natural is the definition of luxury because I feel like luxury is also synonymous with heirlooms,” she says. “It’s something that you can pass down, something that really has a deep-rooted meaning beyond just the look of the product or the look of the diamond.”
Jessenia Landrum of Jevela is reminded of chemistry class when it comes to learning about natural diamonds. “I really have fallen in love with diamonds,” she says. Landrum, who hopes to take more courses to expand her knowledge to become the diamond expert she wants to be, continues, “The NDC has just… propelled me so forward. I feel like I took the escalator to something that would have taken me two sets of steps and a mountain.”
Amina Sorel
Fleur Hoop Earrings, $7,450, modaoperandi.com
Now or Never Ring, $9,888, marissacollections.com
Multi Stone Aura Ring, $11,450, greenwichjewelers.com
Diamond Morse Code ‘I Love You’ Bangle, $22,500, greenwichjewelers.com
Continuum Spiral Earrings, $13,650, modaoperandi.com
Continuum Spiral Ring, $9,900, modaoperandi.com
Morse Code ‘Dream Big’ Flip Ring, $10,500, 1stdibs.com
Sweet Dreams Diamond Choker, $32,000, modaoperandi.com
Twelfth House of Zodiac Charms, $2,500, marissacollections.com
ABC Letter Diamond Charm, $1,560, marissacollections.com
Diamond Spade Pendant, $1,950, marissacollections.com
Diamond ‘C’ Block Letter Charm, $2,150, greenwichjewelers.com
Morse Code ‘Be Happy’ Flip Pendant, $25,000, 1stdibs.com
Morse Code ‘Inspire’ Ring, $12,250, 1stdibs.com
Morse Code ‘Soulmate’ Hoop Earrings, $11,450, 1stdibs.com
Even those who have worked with natural diamonds before, like gemologists Sorel and Navia, found a deeper appreciation for them through the program. “It actually allowed me to branch out of my comfort zone and produce something that that I’ve been wanting to do,” says Navia. “I’ve used a lot of precious stones and smaller diamonds, but with the help of NDC, I was able to make this connection very diamond-forward.”
James too was able to design beyond his wildest dreams thanks to the program. A piece that had become one of his biggest labors of love was actually the one that sold first. “It was like seeing one of my babies leave,” he says with a laugh. “So it was very interesting and definitely rewarding. I learned a lot.”
“I felt like I was exposed to things in a different way—in a new way—and learning new processes,” adds James. This makes perfect sense given his collection is called Process, and the sold ring featured three diamonds: a rough, a semi-finished rough cut and a polished stone, reflecting the rough-to-polished process a natural diamond goes through.
Jevela
Binny Hoop Earrings, $8,800, modaoperandi.com
Celenia Diamond Ring Set, $4,770, 1stdibs.com
Tracey Bracelet, $4,450, greenwichjewelers.com
Legacy Mirror Pendant, $6,880, marissacollections.com
Celenia Choker Necklace, $3,300, greenwichjewelers.com
Ricky Stud Earrings, $1,300, modaoperandi.com
Gigi Stud Earrings, $2,030, modaoperandi.com
Ricky Hoop Earrings, $9,240, greenwichjewelers.com
Tracey Choker Necklace, $6,240, modaoperandi.com
Legacy Ring, $4,800, marissacollections.com
Jevela Gigi Diamond Drop Necklace, $6,510, 1stdibs.com
The designers put their hearts into their collections, each one inspired by something personal and close to their hearts. “I read this quote that was like ‘our legacy is not what we leave behind, but what we send forward,’” says Landrum. With that in mind, she named pieces of her collection after her beloved family members, cementing that legacy in her collection.
Navia also looked to her ancestry to inspire her collection, naming it “Mara,” a nickname her grandfather used for her grandmother. “A lot of [my grandmother’s] jewelry inspired me,” she says. Her collection is “a more modern take with a lot of diamonds, but I grew up watching her with all her jewelry and we would always like to take it off her and put it on us and so that was a big inspiration for the collection.”
Metal x Wire
Bold Lynx Diamond Necklace, $14,600, 1stdibs.com
Chanelier Ear Jacket, $14,500, modaoperandi.com
Diamond Ear Wrap, $7,000, greenwichjewelers.com
Legacy Diamond Bangle Bracelet, $34,000, modaoperandi.com
Bold Lynx Toggle Bracelet, $13,750, marissacollections.com
Diamond Slice Halo Ring, $8,250, greenwichjewelers.com
Legacy Diamond Choker Necklace, $38,500, marissacollections.com
Legacy Diamond Ring, $10,750, marissacollections.com
Currie, too, was inspired by her roots when designing her collection, specifically a set of bangles she wore every day of her childhood. “They were super thin and I was in college and I think I slapped it on the table and it broke in half,” she remembers with a laugh. “And I thought, well, I still liked the feeling of that bangle but how would I put my personality in it?” Enter Currie’s collection of substantial bangles, chokers and more. “I am not the daintiest person so it’s a derivative of that experience.”
With these collections released into the world, the designers are excited for what’s next. “Prior to working with the NDC and creating this fine collection, I had a smaller collection that we call The Love Collection,” shares Beloti. “So, I’m currently working on one piece that’s kind of like a part of our Love Collection, but it will be our first fine Love Collection piece.”
Sorel is excited to share more of her Morse and Aura collections, complete with codes and hidden meanings. “You can write anything you want in morse code,” within her pieces or custom make a piece with your Aura colors.
Gwen Beloti
Diamond Kite Motif Earrings, $5,660, 1stdibs.com
Essence Trio Diamond Eternity Band, $1,930, modaoperandi.com
Woven Essentia Emerald Frame Drop Earrings, $19,990, 1stdibs.com
Emerald Cut Diamond Essence Prism Cuff, $2,580, greenwichjewelers.com
Woven Essential Emerald Cut Huggies, $3,760, marissacollections.com
Woven Open Pave Diamond Ring, $4,900, marissacollections.com
Woven Essentia Trio Set Diamond Pendant Necklace, $5,570, greenwichjewelers.com
Woven Essentia Trio Shape Pattern Delux Tennis Bracelet, $31,100, 1stdibs.com
Essence Bezel and Prism Charm Diamond Necklace, $1,990, marissacollections.com
Essence Diamond Tennis Bracelet, $6,800, marissacollections.com
Woven Open Stud Diamond Earring and Jacket, $4,500, modaoperandi.com
Woven Open Solitaire Princess Diamond Ring, $2,700, marissacollections.com
Essence Baguette Diamond Band, $1,390, marissacollections.com
Woven Trio Diamond Shape Chunky Huggie Earrings, $4,020, marissacollections.com
Round Cut Diamond Essence Prism Cuff, $2,500, greenwichjewelers.com
Essence Pavé Eternity Band, $1,190, marissacollections.com
Diamond Woven Open Signet Ring, $940, greenwichjewelers.com
Trillion Cut Diamond Essence Prism Cuff, $2,700, greenwichjewelers.com
Creating with their customers in mind is of utmost importance to each of the designers, making pieces that will last a lifetime. With NDC’s unparalleled access to diamantaires, cutters, manufacturers, wholesalers and more, these designers are not only able to dream big but to execute those dreams as well. We cannot wait to see what the future holds for these talented creatives and the designs that are sure to become staples in many jewelry collections.
