In Paris this season, during Paris Couture Week and Paris Fashion Week, many designers presented limited collections—perhaps dampened by the pandemic and supply chain issues of 2021—, while others released high jewelry pieces from afar. Nevertheless, we were graced with the debut appearances of some absolutely exquisite, superiorly crafted pieces featuring the likes of magnificent fancy-colored diamonds and D internally flawless type IIA diamonds. See for yourself.
De Beers Alchemist of Light
After exploring the beauty of the natural world in its last high jewelry collection, De Beers turns to the beauty of light; of course, diamonds come alive in the light, whether they’re gently illuminated by candlelight or sparkling brilliantly in the sunshine. The Alchemist of Light collection meditates on the different types of light in seven sets, totaling 45 one-of-a-kind pieces. This week, it unveiled the first chapter, comprised of the Atomique and Light Rays sets.
“These daring designs push creative and technical boundaries, inspired by the exceptional diamonds that De Beers is able to source, cut and polish to the most exacting standards,” says Céline Assimon, CEO of De Beers Jewelers. “A sublime fusion of art and science, precision and imagination, tradition and modernity. We understand and care passionately that our clients not only express their individuality through these wearable works of art, but also bring another layer to the creative story. In this respect, our clients are true alchemists of light, too.”
Atomique focuses on the purity of white diamonds, which is most striking in the Atomique Collar necklace. This unbelievable piece features 1,907 diamonds, including an 18.57 carat internally flawless diamond at the center. Light Rays explores the beauty of sunlight with fancy-colored and white diamonds. The second chapter will debut in Paris in July.
Bulgari High Jewelry Serpenti Watch
While Bulgari might best be known for its opulent jewelry, it also crafts stunning watches. In its high jewelry watches, the best of watchmaking, rare gemstones and expert craftsmanship blend. This week, Bulgari unveiled new high jewelry Serpenti watches. And while they didn’t debut in Paris, the timing is still impeccable. The diamonds and enamel are as gorgeous as ever, but for the first time in decades, they are powered by mechanical movements. There are two gorgeous models in the collection with diamonds. The first has yellow gold scales that coil around the wrist, topped with a spectacular diamond-set head. For more all-over sparkle, there’s a version with diamonds and turquoise set around the entire bracelet and serpent’s head. Naturally, the secret watch dial is set with diamonds, too.
Cartier Sixième Sens Chapter III
Cartier showcased the third chapter of the maison’s Sixième Sens high jewelry collection during Paris Couture Week. This diamond-and gemstone-focused collection shows the breadth of Cartier’s designs, with Art Deco-inspired pieces, modern masterpieces and several diamond felines. The collection included several exceptional diamond pieces, including the Locus suite, which exclusively features diamonds in a modern, geometric necklace and earrings. The Kanzia suite uses discreet emerald and onyx to highlight the beauty of the diamonds, making them even more brilliant through the contrasting colors.
Chopard Exceptional Stones
Chopard typically debuts its high jewelry on the necks of A-listers at the Cannes Film Festival, but it still managed to make quite a stir during Paris Couture Week with the announcement of a few exceptional pieces sure to cause a frenzy among collectors of fancy-colored diamonds. The Rose of Caroline ring boasts a 10.88 carat fancy intense pink diamond—an unusually large stone for such a rich color with VVS1 clarity—in a radiant cut and set in Fairmined-certified ethical gold. It’s flanked by two heart-shaped rubies, which accentuates the pink hue of the diamond, and pink and white diamonds cover the setting and ring. Toi et Moi rings are top of mind for designers, especially after a few high-profile engagements. This exceptional ring features two pear-shaped diamonds: a 4.22 carat fancy intense blue diamond and a 3.01 carat D internally flawless type IIA diamond.
Cartier also recently announced the acquisition of an exceptional 6,225 carat (yes, you read that right..!) rough emerald.
This is Cindy Chao’s first collection during Paris Couture Week since receiving the prestigious Chevalier dans l’Ordre des Arts et Lettres from Culture Minister Roselyne Bachelot in November 2021. Not only was Chao the first founder of a high jewelry house to receive the honor, but the first Asian jewelry designer to do so as well. Fittingly, there were several pieces celebrating her 15th anniversary, including a pair of gorgeous Coral earrings and one of her signature Feather brooches. The Coral earrings are crafted from colored titanium—one blue, one brown—with white diamonds decorating the asymmetrical coral fronds. Each is set with a colored stone in a complementary color—a blue sapphire and a brown-orange diamond. The magnificent Feather brooch features a staggering amount of gemstones—in total, more than 1,700—including many significant diamonds. The main gemstones are 39 cushion cut diamonds ranging from 0.5 to 2.8 carats, and yellow diamonds and colored gemstones add a welcome sparkle. The stones are set on a pink titanium frame.