Why Asscher Cut Rings Are the Ultimate Vintage-Lover’s Dream
There’s something undeniably captivating about an Asscher cut ring. With its hypnotic geometry and unmistakable vintage vibe, the Asscher cut has long appealed to those with a taste for timeless elegance. Originally patented over a century ago, this distinctive diamond cut is a rarity in today’s market—and that’s precisely why collectors, vintage lovers, and sophisticated shoppers can’t get enough. Whether you’re shopping for an engagement ring or adding a heritage-inspired piece to your jewelry collection, an Asscher cut ring delivers sophistication, history, and enduring appeal.
In this guide, we’ll explore everything you need to know about Asscher cut rings—from what sets them apart to what to look for when buying one—so you can shop with confidence for this timeless shape.
Meet the Experts
Olivia Landau is the founder and CEO of The Clear Cut, a fourth-generation diamond expert, and a GIA Graduate Gemologist (GG). Named to Forbes’ 30 Under 30 and Entrepreneur’s 100 Women of Impact list, Olivia has been featured in Forbes, Vogue, The New York Times, and more for her modern, transparent approach to diamond education and design.
Ashley Zhang is a New York-based jewelry designer, known for her vintage-inspired engagement rings and heirloom-quality designs. A California native and Parsons School of Design alum, she blends historical craftsmanship with modern elegance to create timeless, collectible styles.
What Is an Asscher Cut Diamond?
An Asscher cut diamond is a masterclass in symmetry and elegance. With its square shape, clipped corners, and stepped facets, this shape evokes the grandeur of Old World glamour, but with a thoroughly modern edge. “It’s similar to an emerald cut, but it has a square shape and cut corners,” says Olivia Landau, GIA-certified gemologist and founder of The Clear Cut. “Asscher cut diamonds have around 58 facets and a deeply layered look that really draws your eye to the stone.”
The magic of an Asscher lies in its architecture. Its mirrored faceting creates a captivating hall-of-mirrors effect, which accentuates the purity of the stone. It’s a shape that asks you to savor the details. This isn’t sparkle for sparkle’s sake—it’s luster, depth, and intention, captured in every plane.
The Fascinating History of Asscher Cut Diamonds
If diamonds could tell stories, the Asscher cut would have tales of jazz-age soirées, 1920s cocktail parties, and the rise of industrial-age luxury. Originally patented in 1902 by Joseph Asscher of the renowned Asscher Brothers in the Netherlands, the cut was revolutionary for its time, and became the first diamond cut in history to be protected by a patent.
The fact that the Asscher cut was a patented design is part of what makes it so special, explains Landau. “Its patent was quite rare, which evolved its exclusive, luxury appeal,” she says. More than just a technical innovation, the Asscher became synonymous with the Art Deco movement, a period that championed bold symmetry, architectural geometry, and opulent restraint.
Ashley Zhang, a jewelry designer known for her vintage-inspired engagement rings, agrees: “Many vintage lovers are drawn to the Asscher cut as it reminds them of the Art Deco era, the time of which the shape was first popular.”
Worn by royalty, rediscovered in antique settings, and continually reimagined by modern designers, the Asscher—and likewise Asscher cut rings—have stood the test of time as both a fashion statement and a historical artifact.
Everything You Need to Know About Buying an Asscher Cut Ring
Asscher cut diamonds are a favorite of connoisseurs for a reason—they demand a certain level of purity. Unlike brilliant cuts, which use faceting to disguise imperfections, step cuts like the Asscher put it all on display. “Since Asschers are step cuts, they really show everything,” says Landau. “Inclusions are more visible than in a brilliant cut. However, Asscher cuts mask color well, so you have more flexibility when it comes to the color grade.”
That means quality matters—a lot. Prioritize clarity and expert cutting when selecting your stone. Look for the mesmerizing symmetry that defines the Asscher cut, and don’t forget about proportions. “Look for a well-cut stone with a balanced, symmetrical face-up,” Landau advises. A 1:1 length-to-width ratio will help ensure your diamond retains its iconic square silhouette.
Zhang offers another practical tip: “Asscher cut diamonds can look smaller for their carat weight, so keep that in mind when shopping online if you can’t try them on in person.” A beautifully cut Asscher might not appear as large as other shapes, but what it lacks in surface area, it makes up for in architectural beauty.
What Makes Asscher Cut Rings So Irresistible
Not every diamond shape stops you in your tracks, but the Asscher does. It’s a quiet kind of luxury, the kind that speaks in glances and lingers in memory. “Asscher cut diamonds make up a tiny percentage of the diamond market,” says Zhang. “So working with them in general is very rare.” That rarity only adds to their allure.
Asscher cut rings appeal to those with a refined eye and a love for craftsmanship. “The depth and symmetry of Asscher cuts make them such a unique diamond compared to others,” Landau says. “They have a geometric sparkle that’s more about clarity and luster than traditional brilliance, so people are drawn to them for a more understated and sophisticated look.”
Their distinctive beauty has caught the eye of royalty and celebrities alike. Pippa Middleton’s art deco-inspired engagement ring features an Asscher cut center stone with a halo, while Nicky Hilton wears a dazzling three-stone Asscher cut engagement ring that perfectly complements her classic style. Perhaps the most famous Asscher of all is the 33.19-carat Krupp Diamond—later renamed the Elizabeth Taylor Diamond—which showcases the shape’s dramatic depth and timeless glamour.
If you’re drawn to the romance of the past but have a modern sensibility, the Asscher delivers the best of both worlds: precision and poetry.
Shop Asscher Cut Rings
Whether you’re dreaming of a vintage-inspired engagement ring or a modern heirloom with Art Deco flair, an Asscher cut ring delivers unmatched elegance. With their hypnotic sparkle, geometric precision, and rich history, these rings make a strong statement without ever shouting.
Ready to find your perfect Asscher? Explore expertly curated natural diamond Asscher cut rings from some of our favorite designers and retailers.
Ashley Zhang Antonia Asscher Cut Engagement Ring, price upon request, ashleyzhangjewelry.com
KatKim Duet Asscher Ring, $32,000, katkimfinejewelry.com
Beladora Asscher Cut Diamond Ring in Platinum, $123,000, beladora.com
Erstwhile Midcentury Asscher Cut Ring, $100,000, erstwhilejewelry.com
Grace Lee Asscher Baguette Helix Setting in Two-Tone 18K Gold, price upon request, gracelee.com
Jemma Wynne Bespoke Asscher Cut Diamond Autumn Ring, price upon request, jemmawynne.com
Single Stone Wyler Ring with Asscher Cut Center, $24,000, singlestone.com
Material Good Asscher Cut Five-Stone Diamond Engagement Ring, $85,800, materialgood.com
Retrouvaí Loop Ring with 5ct Asscher Cut Diamond, price upon request, retrouvai.com
Stephanie Gottlieb Asscher Cut Diamond Pavé Button Ring, $28,000, stephaniegottlieb.com
