When doors open to the Pavilion of Art and Design or PAD London, the visitors know to expect the best of contemporary and modern design. The art fair displays objects ranging from sculptures, furniture, and paintings to exquisite jewelry. The items are designed with an acquired taste in mind, even the simplest designs require reflection on behalf of the viewer.
In the temporary structure built at the center of London in Mayfair, exceptional jewelers have stretched imagination, artistic flair, and craftsmanship to the outer limits of what is physically possible. The choice of material—e.g., briolette cut diamonds, ceramics, and distressed silver—along with unexpected color combinations, make for innovative jewelry designs. For the 17th edition of PAD London, here are some notable designs with boldness and creativity to empower you.
To celebrate the British location, Taffin premiered a Union Jack pendant set with natural diamonds, rubies, and sapphires highlighted by 18K yellow and white gold.
Another never-before-seen jewelry piece, and a pastel lover’s dream, is a pair of earrings with reverse set natural diamonds bordered by soft-colored ceramic and set in silver and 18k rose gold.
In a display of sheer power and confidence, the knockout beautiful Diamond Caolo Pendant astounded visitors with its physicality. The pendant is part of the Magica Naturae Bestiaire Collection with the bird being one of five otherworldly animals. Antique natural diamonds are transformed into a magical creature with the help of yellow gold, distressed silver, and rose gold scales.
Two very unusual diamonds are married together with the “kissing technique” and set in 18K rose gold. The center diamond is a moval-shaped diamond. Moval is the name for an extraordinary diamond that mixes an oval and marquise shape. The Moval-shaped diamond is set above a Fancy Deep Brownish Orangy Yellow marquise cut diamond.
There is a natural gravity to this exceptional ring coming from the large 16.45-carat old mine oval-shaped diamond and 1-carat substantial amber piece. The weighty center stone and amber is set with 77 diamonds and almost 20 grams of 18K yellow gold.
Matturi Fine Jewelry
Also exhibited with Elisabetta Cipriani Wearable Art is the the Nomoli Art Deco brooch designed by the diamond expert Satta Matturi who takes inspiration from the vast design and culture of Africa which she has great insights from her many years living on the continent, where she is from. The brooch features round brilliant and baguette cut natural diamonds surrounded by 18kt white gold, onyx, and ceramics.
With an over 6-carat Fancy Vivid Yellow diamond at its center, the warm color of this stunning Hemmerle diamond ring is deepened by bronze, aluminum, and white gold.
Deeply rooted in mythology and highly emotive, we discover Joy BC’s jewelry exhibited with Elisabetta Cipriani Wearable Art. The ‘Dismantle (with diamonds)’ ring is a deconstructed take on classist ideals where natural yellow diamonds are set in recycled 18ct yellow gold, black rhodium, and recycled 925 silver.
Promising a talismanic reminder of the strength of character, Cultus Artem exhibited with the London-based gallery Objet d’Emotion the Pink Crush Aphrodite Ring that features extraordinary use of natural polki diamonds surrounding the central hot pink Cobaltoan Calcite stone. The ring is held together with 18K gold band and 22K gold setting.
Another pink ring with a unique usage of natural diamonds is the stunning Pink Magnolia Ring from Neha Dani. It is the five briolette cut diamonds incorporated into the design as seeds in the magnolia flower. The five diamonds move with your touch and create a soft glow. The flower petals are created with 197 pink rose-cut diamonds, 186 white rose-cut diamonds, and 1,498 full-cut round diamonds. All set in 18K white and rose fold.