Why a Diamond Gypsy-Set Ring is the Ultimate in Low-Key Luxury

The bold, modern, chic, and androgynous style is the perfect setting for today’s lifestyle.

By Jill Newman | May 1, 2025

Once a symbol of ancient wealth and later a subtle sign of Victorian rebellion, the gypsy ring is having a thoroughly modern revival. Defined by its flush-set diamond and smooth, minimalist design, this durable style is as practical as it is chic, making it a favorite among contemporary women’s and men’s rings alike. From antique heirlooms to bold new interpretations, the gypsy ring proves that timeless design never goes out of fashion.

Ahead, learn the fascinating history of this low-key style—plus see designs from some of our favorite designers.

Meet the Expert

Why a Diamond Gypsy-Set Ring is the Ultimate in Low-Key Luxury

Rebecca Selva is the Chief Creative Officer of Fred Leighton and Kwiat, bringing decades of experience in sourcing, curating, and interpreting antique and period jewelry
A respected authority on historical jewelry, Selva frequently provides expert commentary on the provenance, craftsmanship, and cultural significance of vintage and estate pieces

What Is a Gypsy Ring?

A gypsy ring—also known as a flush- or burnish-set ring—is defined by its sleek, low-profile setting, where the diamond is set directly into the band so that it sits flush with the metal surface. There are no prongs or bezels; instead, the metal is gently pressed and smoothed around the stone, holding it securely in place. The result? A clean, minimalist look that feels both modern and timeless.

“I love the gypsy-set design because it has very strong architectural bones,” says designer David Yurman, who created his own interpretation of the diamond setting for both men and women. “When a stone becomes a part of the structural integrity of a design rather than a decorative element, it creates a sense of unity.”

While this trendy diamond gypsy ring has a modern sensibility, the style has actually been around for centuries. “It dates back to antiquity and the Imperial Roman era,” explains Rebecca Selva, Chief Creative Officer for Fred Leighton and Kwiat. “The affluent Romans wore beautiful gypsy-set rings. It’s been modern for thousands of years.” Selva points out that it’s also known as the burnish or flush setting, since the stone is set flush with the metal band without any visible prongs, and jewelers use a burnishing tool to secure the metal setting around the diamond.

Why Gypsy Rings Are Trending Today

The design’s unadorned, minimalist style and sturdy construction are especially relevant today. Because of its low-profile setting, the unconventional diamond setting is a discreet, everyday design—and that is what women want today. They want jewelry they can “live in” and wear to the office, the gym, and every place in between without having to worry about its safety or fragility. The gypsy setting is popular for both engagement rings and wedding rings, as well as pinky rings, and its minimalist aesthetic also appeals to men.

I like the style because it is durable and easy to wear.

Ashley Zhang

In contrast to traditional prong-settings, the gypsy setting cradles each natural diamond and thus offers extra protection around the stone. “I like the style because it is durable and easy to wear,” says New York-based designer Ashley Zhang, who created a range of the fashionable diamond ring styles featuring various diamond cuts and shapes. “You don’t have to worry about prongs or a delicate setting,” she says.

The History of the Gypsy Ring

The gypsy-set ring was also a popular trend during the Victorian era, partly because it served as an alternative to the more flowery and ornate jewelry styles of the time. “It’s clean and sleek look was a welcome departure from the romantic and embellished jewels of the Victorian period,” notes Selva, who is considered an authority on period jewelry.

During the Victorian era, the setting even had an extra special meaning. Designer Nina Runsdorf says that men and women wore a gypsy-set ring on their left pinky fingers to indicate they weren’t interested in marriage. At the time, it was a rebellious concept, and Runsdorf loved the idea so much she created a new series of gypsy-set diamond pinky rings for that very reason. The collection features round diamonds framed in black rhodium and set in chunky gold bands. “It’s a clean, modern look with an old-world feel,” says Runsdorf, who wears one on her left pinky. “You can wear it all the time and nothing will happen to it because it’s so sturdy.”

Modern Takes on the Gypsy Ring

The newest iterations of the age-old gypsy setting feature a range of diamonds, from sleek emerald cut diamonds to big round stones set in wide bands, mainly of yellow gold. Fred Leighton offers a variety of styles, including antique and vintage gypsy-set rings for women and men by Cartier, J.E. Caldwell & Co., Van Cleef & Arpels, and Bulgari, along with newly made creations. “It’s a style that has the spirit of modern luxury,” says Selva, who wears a vintage gypsy-set ring, adding that she loves the weighty feel of the gold on her finger. “It has a luxurious feeling, yet it’s still understated.” Sounds like a ring for the ages.