Science of Diamonds / Colored Diamonds
Why Everyone Is Falling for Brown Diamonds
By Jill Newman, Updated October 2, 2025
Prepare to be tempted by these stunning stones.

Pomellato Gemme Superlative Earrings feature two dark brown diamonds totaling 4 carats, two light brown diamonds totaling 2 carats, and two white diamonds totaling 1 carat, surrounded by 392 brown diamonds at 4.68 carats. (Photographed by Benjamin Bouchet for Only Natural Diamonds)
When Scarlett Johansson flaunted a huge brown stone following her engagement to Colin Jost in 2019, it made us think twice about brown diamonds. The once ugly stepsister to bright white diamonds, the light brown diamond in Johansson’s ring was a declaration of subtle, chic luxury.
Designed by the legendary jeweler and tastemaker, James de Givenchy for Taffin, this ring features an 11-carat oval-shaped diamond on a slim black ceramic band for a supremely sophisticated yet understated design. And that’s exactly what so many of people are striving for these days.
Meet the Experts

Sylva Yepremian, co-founder of Sylva & Cie, is a Lebanese-born, Paris-raised designer whose handcrafted jewelry blends antique aesthetics with modern edge, inspired by her family’s rich jewelry-making heritage and her own passion for one-of-a-kind pieces.

Eve Goldberg, Creative Director and co-owner of William Goldberg, is a third-generation diamantaire renowned for her deep expertise in diamond selection and design, continuing her family’s legacy of excellence in the industry.
Brown diamonds—also called nude, toffee, champagne, cognac, etc.—have been part of our diamond vocabulary for years. But the spin has changed. High-end designers are embracing colored diamonds in shades of brown. After all, they are a discreet alternative to white or pink diamonds, but they still have the sparkling refractory qualities of a delicious jewel.


Brown diamonds—also called nude, toffee, champagne, cognac, etc.—have been part of our diamond vocabulary for years.
What Makes Diamonds Brown?

Brown diamonds get their color from the presence of nitrogen atoms in the crystal. They range in hue and character, and often have a secondary color such as yellow or orange. But it appears the favorable shade are lighter, warm shade of browns, colors reminiscent of Brunello Cucinelli’s neutral cashmere sweaters and separates.
Originally, brown diamonds were used largely for industrial purposes because consumers demanded pure white diamonds. Of course, fancy pink, yellow, and blue are coveted in their own league.
A smart marketing campaign in the ‘80s brought chocolate diamonds into the jewelry industry. But it was Scarlett Johansson’s Taffin ring that got everyone thinking it’s time to think more seriously about brown.
Brown Diamonds on the Red Carpet


Actress Kate Hudson confirmed her engagement to musician Danny Fujikawa at the 2021 Met Gala red carpet, where she debuted her elongated cushion-cut light brown diamond engagement ring with a rose gold band from Lorraine Schwartz.
Lorraine Schwartz was the first to unveil a collection of what she called “nude diamonds” or “skin tones”, which remains Kim Kardashian’s favorite. Whatever color you call them, they are a variation of brown, appearing from light to dark.


For the wedding of Jeff Bezos and Lauren Sanchez in June, Kardashian turned to jeweler Moussaieff, pairing a statement brown diamond necklace from the house’s high jewelry collection with a slinky brown Versace gown. Kim Kardashian’s continued love for these warm-hued stones—often styled with neutral-toned gowns—has kept brown diamonds firmly in the spotlight.
The spectrum is also favored by influential designers like Sylva Yepremian of Sylva & Cie, who features big, juicy, brown diamonds in statement rings. “I love brown diamonds because of their soft color,” she says. “They are still bright and refractive like a white diamond, but their ‘nude’ hue is softer, especially for daytime and everyday wear.”


Brown Diamonds at Auction
A Brown Diamond headlined Sotheby’s Magnificent Jewels Sale in June 2022. Sotheby’s was so excited about the Earth Star, a historic 111.59 carat fancy deep orange-brown diamond, that it commissioned David Webb to create an artistic setting for the stone for its June sale. David Webb’s design team created a carved azurmalachite (a mixture of azurite and malachite) pendant meant to enhance the stone’s earthy brilliance.

“This stone spoke to me,” says Quig Bruning, Sotheby’s Senior Vice President, Head of Jewelry, New York, who has seen his share of great diamonds. “It is a beautiful orange-brown hue and has a life to it with great brilliance and scintillation. The diamond has a beautiful allure to it that goes far beyond the GIA certificate.”
Still, at over 100 carats, that diamond was a bargain. A white diamond of similar size would have sold for significantly more. Sotheby’s offered the Earth Star without reserve, estimating it would sell for between $1.5 and $2.5 million. Surprisingly, it sold for just $693,000. So, if you are looking for a good deal, think brown—they may just be the last great secret in high jewelry.
In December 2024, Sotheby’s featured a striking 14.12-carat emerald-cut Fancy Dark Orangy Brown diamond ring, accented by round diamonds of yellowish and orangy brown hues. Signed by David Morris, this piece was part of the “Magnificent Jewels” sale.
Christie’s Jewels Online auction (March 24–April 2, 2025) featured a standout 18.72-carat light brown-pink diamond ring, which surpassed its presale estimate of $300,000–$500,000 to achieve a final price of $567,000. The result highlights the growing appreciation for brown diamonds in today’s high jewelry market.
Brown Diamonds Aren’t an Alternative—They’re a First Choice
One visionary diamantaire who recognized the unique beauty of brown diamonds decades ago was the pioneering William Goldberg. Indeed, he owned some of the world’s greatest diamonds, but chose to wear a brownish-orange pinky ring as his signature power piece; he was rarely seen without it. It turns out the diamonds are currently making a comeback with men’s pinky rings.


Today, more people want brown stones as alternatives to the traditional colorless diamonds, says Goldberg’s daughter, Eve Goldberg, who is also never without strands of easy-going diamond chains. “A lot of people today are looking for something different, something truly unique, and love the warm tones of brown diamonds,” she says. Goldberg goes on to express how brown gems are an everyday accessory. “They are fun to design with because they are not as sparkly as white diamonds and can really be worn very casually. I have even seen some cool brown pendants worn on the beach!”
At Sethi Couture, the go-to source for diamond stacking rings and layering necklaces, the style is more is more. But that layered look appears more casual with brown diamonds set in equally warm rose gold. “What I love about using champagne diamonds is when set in yellow and rose gold, it gives a warm aesthetic that is soft and subtle,” says Pratima Sethi.


Emily P. Wheeler’s latest collection proves just how far brown diamonds have come in the fine jewelry landscape. By reimagining her signature ombré designs in a champagne palette that gradates from deep brown to white diamonds, Wheeler captures the understated elegance and unique character that modern jewelry consumers crave. It’s a striking reminder that brown and cognac shades are no longer secondary gems—they are leading the conversation in contemporary design and consumer desire.
Shop Brown Diamonds
If you aren’t ready for the big brown solitaire rock yourself, check out stylish designs that you might wear to the beach or wherever this summer from some of our favorite designers. Brown diamonds are no longer just a trend; they’re a modern essential.