Historic Diamonds / Royal Stories
The Untold Story Behind the Napoleon Diamond Necklace’s Rare Georgian Twin
The legendary Napoleon Diamond Necklace represents one of history’s most opulent displays of power and artistry. Over two centuries later, a newly uncovered diamond rivière from the same era mirrors its rarity.
Published July 16, 2025
Written by: Grant Mobley
At the Smithsonian’s National Museum of Natural History in Washington, D.C., a glittering symbol of imperial opulence and enduring craftsmanship sits behind glass: the Napoleon Diamond Necklace. Commissioned in 1811 by Emperor Napoleon Bonaparte to celebrate the birth of his heir, the elaborate diamond necklace is a masterclass in early 19th-century jewelry, rich in history, technical brilliance, and nearly unmatched extravagance.
Over 200 years later, a newly unveiled necklace by Hancocks London from the same period offers the collector or connoisseur a rare opportunity to own a piece that closely parallels one of the most famous imperial jewels of them all. The Georgian diamond rivière necklace, dating to 1820, is a nearly exact match to the base of Napoleon’s gift, as rare, as sophisticated, and as technically brilliant. The appearance of the necklace is every bit as rare as the diamonds it holds.
Meet the Expert
- Grant Mobley is the Jewelry & Watch Editor of Only Natural Diamonds.
- He is a GIA Diamonds Graduate.
- He has over 17 years of jewelry industry experience, starting with growing up in his family’s retail jewelry stores.
The History of the Napoleon Diamond Necklace
To appreciate the significance of both the Napoleon Diamond Necklace and the recently discovered rivière, we must first consider the meteoric rise and equally epic fall of Napoleon I. After divorcing his wife, Empress Joséphine, in 1810 for her failure to produce a male heir, Napoleon married 18-year-old Archduchess Marie Louise of Austria, cementing a political alliance with the powerful Habsburg dynasty. One year later, their son, Napoleon II—dubbed the “King of Rome”—was born. As a gesture of celebration and political pageantry, Napoleon commissioned multiple parures and a grand diamond necklace from his court jeweler, Marie-Étienne Nitôt, founder of the house that would later become Chaumet.
Completed in 1811 by Nitôt et Fils, the Napoleon Diamond Necklace consists of 234 diamonds totaling an estimated 263 carats, including 28 large old mine-cut diamonds, 10 briolettes, and nine suspended pendeloques in pear and oval shape diamonds. The largest stone weighs an estimated 10.4 carats, and each of the ten briolette mounts holds twelve additional rose-cut diamonds. The diamonds could have only been sourced from the two known diamond-producing regions at the time, India and Brazil, making their collection in such quantity an extraordinary feat.
How Much Was the Napoleon Diamond Necklace Worth?
The sheer cost of the piece speaks volumes. Napoleon had the necklace appraised by the Viennese jeweler Ernst Paltscho and ensured that the value, 376,274 French francs, was made public. This amount represented more than the entire annual household budget of the Empress, a strategic show of wealth and dominance as Europe watched France’s imperial ambitions unfold.
Following Napoleon’s downfall in 1814, Marie-Louise returned to Austria with her personal jewelry, including the necklace. It remained within the Habsburg family for generations, passing from the Empress to Archduchess Sophie and eventually to Archduke Karl Ludwig. It was finally sold in 1948 by Prince Franz Joseph of Liechtenstein and then acquired by American heiress and philanthropist Marjorie Merriweather Post, who purchased it from Harry Winston. Post then gifted it to the Smithsonian in 1962. It now sits on display alongside the famed Marie-Louise Diadem, another imperial jewel with Habsburg roots.
A Rare Twin to the Napoleon Diamond Necklace: Georgian Rivière by Hancocks London
While the Napoleon Necklace remains a national treasure, its elegant rivière base (without the suspended pendeloques), composed of matched old mine diamonds in simple cut-down collets, is echoed in the extraordinary rivière necklace now available through Hancocks London. Dating to 1820, this necklace features 28 old mine brilliant-cut diamonds totaling approximately 110 carats, with the largest center stone estimated at 9.26 carats, strikingly close in size and proportion to the centerpiece of the Napoleon necklace.
Each diamond in the rivière sits in a classic Georgian silver-topped gold collet, linked at the back with concealed hooks. The sophisticated and adjustable construction is far ahead of its time. Evidence of fittings suggests that pendeloques were once suspended from the base, much like the elaborate diamond fringe of the Napoleon piece, further displaying its high-society provenance.
Where Did the Diamonds in the Napoleon Necklace Come From?
The era in which artisans created both of these necklaces is what makes them truly exceptional. The early 1800s predate the discovery of diamonds in South Africa by more than 50 years. At the time, the only sources for gem-quality diamonds were the alluvial mines of Golconda, India, and small mines in Brazil, both of which produced extremely limited quantities. Additionally, by the 1800s, the supply of diamonds from India had dwindled to almost nothing.
To acquire over 100 carats of well-matched, large diamonds would have required extraordinary resources and connections, which is why such necklaces were reserved almost exclusively for royalty and aristocracy. These are not merely jewels; they are political and cultural artifacts that encapsulate the wealth and influence of a very select few.
Why Rivière Necklaces Like Napoleon’s Are Still Coveted Today
Rivière necklaces, a term that describes the “river-like” strand of continuous stones in graduated sizes, were a popular and favored style among European nobility during the 18th and 19th centuries. This type of necklace, with its evenly brilliant appearance, can be a standalone everyday staple or layered with other necklaces to convey wealth, taste, and social status. Although the rivière gained popularity over 200 years ago, this classic design remains one of the most coveted additions to any jewelry collection.
Hancocks’ 110-carat rivière represents a once-in-a-generation acquisition opportunity. Not only is it a design parallel to the Napoleon Diamond Necklace, but it’s also one of the few surviving Georgian necklaces of this caliber and condition to enter the market in decades.
The Enduring Legacy of the Napoleon Diamond Necklace
While the Napoleon Diamond Necklace remains securely in the public domain at the Smithsonian, its elegance and legacy are echoed in the Georgian diamond rivière necklace now in the collection of Hancocks London. Both pieces embody a golden age of craftsmanship, showcasing diamonds that were only within the reach of society’s highest tiers.
For those who study or admire antique jewelry, these historic works offer a tangible connection to the past. As we rediscover these treasures, it becomes clear that the allure of old-cut diamonds and antique design is not fading; it’s stronger than ever.
