The Lesotho Legend and Van Cleef & Arpels’ Diamond Legacy
An astonishing natural diamond story in a long history of Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry mastery.
The 67 D-colour, flawless Lesotho Legend diamonds became a 25-piece Mystery Set High Jewelry ensemble by Van Cleef & Arpels. (Credit: © Ilan Taché Photography for Groupe Taché and Diamcad)
“There is no better way to represent the stars at night. There is no better way to match the darker colors of sapphires or black onyx. I cannot imagine that we create jewelry without diamonds,” says Van Cleef & Arpels President Nicolas Bos. There are a few companies bold enough to create a single collection of jewelry cut from one 910-carat stone. The Van Cleef & Arpels collection produced from the Lesotho Legend is a stunning testimony to both daring and unique craftsmanship.
Ahead, discover the fascinating backstory of this remarkable natural diamond—and the breathtaking collection it inspired.
Meet the Expert
- Nicolas Bos is the Chief Executive Officer of Richemont, the Swiss luxury group that owns Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier, and other prestigious maisons.
- He previously served as President and CEO of Van Cleef & Arpels from 2013 to 2024, where he oversaw some of the house’s most ambitious high jewelry collections and reinforced its reputation for exceptional craftsmanship, innovation, and diamond expertise.
The Lesotho Legend: One of the Largest Diamonds Ever Discovered
The Lesotho Legend diamond, a singular D-color Type IIa rough diamond, represents the highest quality characteristics possible in a natural diamond. The stone weighs 910 carats and ranks among the largest gem-quality diamonds ever discovered, making the Lesotho Legend one of the most important diamond finds of the modern era.
The Lesotho Legend was purchased by Van Cleef & Arpels in 2018, and the Maison partnered with Taché, its long-time diamond dealer, and Diamcad, a leading Antwerp-based diamond cutter, to map out an ambitious cutting plan. The result was 67 diamonds cut from the single Lesotho Legend rough, each crafted to the Maison’s exacting standards while honoring the traditions of Van Cleef & Arpels design.
“There are almost an infinity of possibilities with a rough of that size and that quality.” However, for Van Cleef & Arpels, some traditions prevail and help form any plan. “There are certain rules, and I would say even obligations, to try to maximize the use of the stone that will produce the most important sizes out of the rough. This is usually the view of the diamond dealer. But in our world of jewelry, what matters is the shape and size of the diamonds,” explains Bos.
There are infinite possibilities with a rough of that size and that quality.
This careful process relied on advanced 3-D mapping technology to study the Lesotho Legend rough diamond, ensuring the cutters could produce 67 exceptional diamonds while minimizing the loss of precious material. Each resulting stone was cut with ideal proportions to inspire the Maison’s designers. “Going too big for a diamond that is going to be set on a necklace does not necessarily mean something to us,” he says.
The house typically prefers sophisticated emerald cuts and elegant oval shapes, which became central design elements throughout the Lesotho Legend jewelry collection.
Transforming the Lesotho Legend Into High Jewelry
The cuts of the Lesotho Legend diamonds were crucial for the Maison’s design team as they created pieces that reflect Van Cleef & Arpels’ signature visual codes and centuries-old savoir-faire. Mystery Setting, a hallmark technique of Van Cleef & Arpels, plays an important role in the collection. This remarkable method allows gemstones to be set without visible prongs, creating a seamless surface of color and brilliance.
Each stone is fitted into the metal framework of the Mystery Setting using tiny grooves carved into the base of the gemstones. The technique is so complex that only a handful of master artisans are trained in the secret process.
The Lesotho Legend Collection: Mystery Set Masterpieces
The Lesotho Legend jewelry collection is comprised of 25 Mystery Set jewels, each demonstrating the artistic potential unlocked by the diamonds cut from the legendary rough. The Collerette Mystérieuse necklace is one of the most striking examples of this technical virtuosity.
“It’s a piece that is a very good combination in that collection of the strength and the power of the white diamonds, combined with the ruby of the mystery setting. But also, an element of delicacy, of softness brought by the design, very inspired by couture,” Bos says.
The necklace features a 51.18-carat emerald-cut diamond originating from the Lesotho Legend, surrounded by alternating rows of diamonds and rubies, edged with pink sapphires and square-cut diamonds, meant to evoke delicate lace. It fastens at the nape with an elegant bow, inspired by another French tradition of Haute Couture.
The center emerald-cut diamond exemplifies Van Cleef & Arpels’ fascination with proportion in a shape sometimes referred to as the “tennis court” cut. This style features a wide rectangular table—the flat surface of the stone—framed by rows of beveled facets that maximize brilliance and luminosity. This extraordinary diamond can also be detached from the necklace and worn as a ring, adding versatility to the remarkable design.
The Enduring Legacy of the Lesotho Legend
The story of the Lesotho Legend diamond took four years to transform from a monumental rough stone into a breathtaking collection of high jewelry. Yet Van Cleef & Arpels has been crafting diamond legends since its founding. The marriage of Estelle Arpels, the daughter of a gemstone merchant, and Alfred Van Cleef, the son of a lapidary, began a romantic narrative in which gemstones have always been at the heart of the Maison.
The Lesotho Legend now joins the long history of extraordinary diamonds associated with Van Cleef & Arpels, proving once again how a single remarkable stone can inspire an entire universe of design. The latest chapter written by Nicolas Bos and the talented artisans at Van Cleef & Arpels continues the legacy of the Lesotho Legend—an extraordinary natural diamond transformed into timeless high jewelry.
Creative Producer: Lizzy Oppenheimer
Director/Photographer: Simon Procter
Photographer Assistant: Ignacio Barrios
Photographer Assistant: Sarah Bailly
Sound Technician: Raphael Naquet
Local: Production: Ben Faraday
Production Assistant: Alexi Parenin
Produced By: Petty Cash Productions
