Historic Diamonds
The Epic 2,000-Year Journey of the Ashoka Diamond Cut
By Grant Mobley, July 23, 2025
From the ancient emperor who inspired its name to the decades-long pursuit by William Goldberg to recreate it, this is one of the most mesmerizing diamond cuts today.
Courtesy of William Goldberg
Following the 25th anniversary of the modern Ashoka diamond cut in 2024, there’s no better moment to reflect on a story that began over two thousand years ago and culminated in one of the most iconic cuts of the modern era. The story of this diamond cut is as much about transformation as it is about beauty, both in the diamond and the ancient Indian emperor it was named after.
Read on to discover the rich history, legendary figures, and modern revival of this standout diamond cut.
Meet the Expert
- Grant Mobley is the Jewelry & Watch Editor of Only Natural Diamonds.
- He is a GIA Diamonds Graduate.
- He has over 17 years of jewelry industry experience, starting with growing up in his family’s retail jewelry stores.
The Ancient Origins of the Ashoka Diamond Name
The Ashoka diamond owes its name to Emperor Ashoka the Great, one of the most influential and complex rulers in Indian history. Born in the third century BCE, Ashoka led the Mauryan Empire during a time of conquest and expansion. His reign is perhaps best known for the bloody Kalinga War, a brutal campaign that resulted in the deaths of more than 100,000 people.
But what followed was one of history’s most profound transformations. Moved by the immense suffering caused by the war, Ashoka embraced Buddhism and renounced violence altogether. He became a tireless advocate for peace, equality, and compassion, inscribing his new values on massive stone pillars and edicts across the Indian subcontinent, many of which still stand today.
His legacy is not just political; it’s deeply spiritual. It is said that the original Ashoka diamond was named after him for its supposed ability to bring joy and dispel sorrow, which is an echo of the emperor’s own journey from destruction to harmony.
The Original Ashoka Diamond: From India to Hollywood
The first known appearance of the Ashoka diamond was in 1947, when legendary jeweler Harry Winston acquired a remarkable 41.37-carat D-flawless diamond from an Indian dealer. The timing was no coincidence as India had just gained independence, and many royal families were quietly parting with their heirlooms.
This original diamond, cut by an unknown but clearly masterful artist, was elongated, exquisitely symmetrical, and unlike anything seen before. Winston sold it over a decade later to María Félix, the larger-than-life Mexican actress renowned for her love of bold, attention-grabbing jewels, who remains a legend in the jewelry world. The diamond followed her to red carpets and private galas before she decided to sell it to the now-controversial art dealer Roberto Polo, who gifted it to his wife, Rosa.
The diamond’s final public appearance came in 1988, when it was auctioned at Sotheby’s in St. Moritz for $3.85 million. It was the second-highest price paid for a colorless diamond at auction at the time. Among the attendees were Saul and Dale Goldberg, hoping to bring it into the William Goldberg collection. But it was not to be. The stone was sold to an anonymous bidder and has never been seen publicly since.
The Ashoka Diamond: William Goldberg’s Vision for a Modern Icon
Although he never owned the original stone, William Goldberg couldn’t shake the image of the stunning diamond. For the next decade, he and his team pursued the creation of a modern version that could capture the spirit of the original, not as a replica, but as a reinvention rooted in the same elegance and power.
In 1999, after years of research and experimentation, the Goldberg family introduced the patented Ashoka diamond cut. With 62 precisely placed facets, the modern Ashoka cut produces exceptional brilliance and a distinctive shape that requires rough material of extraordinary quality and size. Due to the complexity of the cut, less than 1% of diamonds qualify.
The result is unlike anything else. Its rectangular shape with softly rounded corners and a perfectly symmetrical silhouette evokes the serenity and strength of its namesake. Visually, the Ashoka appears up to 30% larger than an emerald-cut diamond of the same carat weight, a feat achieved through its unique faceting and proportion.
And it’s not just about size, it’s about life. The Ashoka dances with light in a way that draws the eye and holds it, much like the ancient emperor’s story continues to capture imaginations thousands of years later.
Why the Ashoka Cut Remains One-of-a-Kind
Since its debut, this diamond cut has become a signature of the William Goldberg brand — and a favorite among connoisseurs and collectors. In 2015, a one-of-a-kind necklace featuring a 48-carat Ashoka diamond, the largest ever cut by the house, made headlines. The piece included over 90 carats of diamonds and represented the pinnacle of modern diamond cutting and design.
Unlike many diamond cuts that are replicated and rebranded across the industry, the Ashoka remains a unique and exclusive cut. Only William Goldberg and its select partners are authorized to create this specific diamond, ensuring that each stone meets the rigorous standards first set by Bill Goldberg himself.
Celebrating 25 Years of the Modern Ashoka Cut
As we celebrate 25 years of the Ashoka diamond, we recognize more than just a milestone in design; we honor a legacy of vision, craftsmanship, and inspiration. From the battlefield of Kalinga to the runways of Paris and the showcases of Fifth Avenue, the diamond’s story spans millennia and continents.
It’s a story of transformation — from emperor to peacemaker, from rough crystal to masterpiece. And for those lucky enough to wear one, it’s a reminder that true beauty isn’t just what you see… It’s the story it tells.
