The 15 Most Iconic Luxury Watches of All Time
From the Rolex Submariner to the Cartier Crash, these iconic watch designs have stood the test of time. Instantly recognizable, endlessly coveted, and in diamond-set versions that elevate them from horological legends to wearable works of art.
Few objects we can own carry the instant recognition and timeless appeal of iconic luxury watches. Whether it’s the bold geometry of a Royal Oak, the elegant minimalism of a Calatrava, or the unmistakable bezel of a Submariner, these timepieces aren’t just instruments of precision; they’re symbols of heritage, craftsmanship, and status. Over the decades, some watch designs have ascended beyond trends to become enduring icons, instantly identifiable across continents and generations.
Meet the Expert
- Grant Mobley is the Jewelry & Watch Editor of Only Natural Diamonds.
- He is a GIA Diamonds Graduate.
- He has over 17 years of jewelry industry experience, starting with growing up in his family’s retail jewelry stores.
Among these legendary models, many take on an entirely new level of desirability when set with diamonds. While the core designs remain untouched, diamond-set versions elevate these watches into the realm of wearable art—adding rarity, value, and a distinctly personal expression of luxury. From Cartier’s sculptural shapes to Omega’s bold chronographs, and from Jaeger-LeCoultre’s reversible masterpieces to the technical brilliance of F.P. Journe and A. Lange & Söhne, each watch on this list blends horological innovation with unmistakable design.
Here, I highlight my picks for 15 of the most iconic watch designs of all time—each one available in diamond-set variations that make them even more coveted by collectors and connoisseurs around the world.
Best Luxury Watches: Rolex Submariner
Few watches have defined a category quite like the Rolex Submariner. Introduced in 1953, the Submariner set the standard for the modern dive watch with its rotating bezel, luminous markers, and unmatched durability. Its clean, functional design has remained remarkably consistent for over 70 years, making it instantly recognizable on any wrist—from professional divers to world leaders and Hollywood icons. While the classic steel version remains a grail for many, diamond-set Submariners take the legendary model to extraordinary new heights, combining tool-watch heritage with unapologetic luxury. It’s a perfect example of Rolex’s ability to strike a balance between innovation, prestige, and timeless style.
Best Luxury Watches: Cartier Tank
The Cartier Tank is more than a watch—it’s a design icon with over a century of influence. First introduced in 1917 and inspired by the silhouette of military tanks seen from above, its rectangular case, clean lines, and Roman numerals redefined watch design with understated elegance. Worn by everyone from Jackie Kennedy to Andy Warhol, the Tank is a symbol of refined taste and enduring style. Diamond-set versions, whether discreetly accented or fully pavé, transform this minimalist classic into a subtle yet striking statement of quiet opulence.
Best Luxury Watches: Omega Speedmaster
The Omega Speedmaster is one of the most celebrated chronographs in watch history—and the only one to land on the moon. Introduced in 1957 and later chosen by NASA for the Apollo missions, the Speedmaster’s rugged functionality, tri-compax dial, and tachymeter bezel became legendary. Its connection to space exploration gives it a cultural and historical significance few watches can rival. While traditionally seen in stainless steel, diamond-set Speedmasters offer a captivating contrast, merging their utilitarian roots with elevated luxury. Whether worn for its technical legacy or its elevated design, the Speedmaster remains a timeless symbol of adventure and innovation.
Best Luxury Watches: Rolex Cosmograph Daytona
The Rolex Cosmograph Daytona stands at the crossroads of high-performance engineering and timeless style. Originally launched in 1963 for professional race car drivers, the Daytona’s tachymeter bezel, trio of subdials, and sleek proportions quickly earned it cult status—cemented by its association with Paul Newman. Today, it’s one of the most coveted chronographs in the world. Diamond-set Daytonas elevate this racing legend to a new realm of luxury, combining Rolex’s technical mastery with gem-setting artistry. Whether in platinum, gold, or covered in diamonds, the Daytona proves that precision and glamour can share the same dial—without compromising either.
Best Luxury Watches: Patek Philippe Calatrava
The Patek Philippe Calatrava is the purest expression of classic watchmaking elegance. Introduced in 1932, its clean dial, slim profile, and balanced proportions define the dress watch genre. With no unnecessary ornamentation, the Calatrava exemplifies Patek’s philosophy that true luxury lies in restraint and craftsmanship. Over the decades, it has remained a symbol of refined taste and quiet sophistication. Diamond-set versions add a layer of subtle opulence to its timeless silhouette. The Calatrava is an heirloom, and as Patek Philippe famously says, “You never actually own a Patek Philippe. You merely look after it for the next generation”.
Best Luxury Watches: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is a triumph of Art Deco design and mechanical ingenuity. Born in 1931 to withstand the rigors of polo matches, its patented reversible case allowed players to protect the watch face during play—an innovation that became a signature feature. With its rectangular shape, sharp lines, and dual-sided functionality, the Reverso is instantly recognizable and endlessly versatile. Whether showcasing a second time zone, a skeletonized movement, or a blank canvas for personalization, it remains one of the most distinctive watches ever made. Diamond-set Reverso models elevate the design further, turning a piece of horological history into a refined jewel for the wrist.
Best Luxury Watches: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak shattered conventions when it was launched in 1972, introducing the world to the first true luxury sports watch made of stainless steel. Designed by the legendary Gérald Genta, its octagonal bezel, exposed screws, and integrated bracelet created a silhouette that remains one of the most iconic in the watchmaking industry. Originally controversial, the Royal Oak is now a cornerstone of modern horology and a must-have for serious collectors. Diamond-set versions can be subtly accented or fully ‘iced out’—add a striking contrast to its industrial-inspired design, proving that bold architecture and high jewelry can coexist in perfect balance on the wrist.
Best Luxury Watches: Patek Philippe Nautilus
The Patek Philippe Nautilus is the epitome of sporty elegance, blending refined craftsmanship with a bold, unconventional design. Introduced in 1976 and also designed by Gérald Genta, the Nautilus broke from tradition with its porthole-shaped case, rounded octagonal bezel, and horizontally embossed dial. What began as a daring steel sports watch quickly became one of the most coveted timepieces in the world. Today, the Nautilus is a symbol of exclusivity and taste, especially in its diamond-set iterations, which add brilliance without compromising its sporty DNA. It’s no surprise that they often sell well above their retail prices.
Best Luxury Watches: Rolex Day-Date
The Rolex Day-Date, often referred to as the “President,” is the ultimate symbol of prestige and power. Introduced in 1956 as the first wristwatch to display both the date and the day of the week spelled out in full, it quickly became the choice of world leaders, visionaries, and tastemakers. With its bold case, fluted bezel, and signature President bracelet, the Day-Date exudes authority and sophistication. Diamond-set versions, ranging from diamond hour markers to fully pavé dials, channel-set bezels, or diamond-covered bracelets, enhance its already commanding presence. The Day-Date has long stood as the definitive watch for those who want to signal they’ve truly arrived.
Best Luxury Watches: Piaget Polo
The Piaget Polo is where refined watchmaking meets bold, contemporary style. Introduced in 1979, the Polo broke new ground with its fully integrated case and bracelet design, seamlessly blending form and function in precious metals. Sleek, sporty, and unapologetically luxurious, it quickly became a favorite among tastemakers and jet-setters alike. Diamond-set versions of the Polo take its statement-making design even further, utilizing diamonds in unique ways to combine Piaget’s jewelry heritage with horological sophistication. It’s a watch that defines an era of effortless elegance.
Best Luxury Watches: A Lange & Söhne Lange 1
The A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 is a modern icon born from one of watchmaking’s most storied revivals. Unveiled in 1994 as part of the brand’s triumphant return after German reunification, the Lange 1 broke design conventions with its off-center dial layout, oversized date display, and perfectly balanced asymmetry. It signaled not only the rebirth of Glashütte watchmaking but also a new standard of precision and craftsmanship. Diamond-set versions of the Lange 1 enhance its architectural beauty, adding a refined brilliance to its bold design language. With its distinctive aesthetic and technical mastery, the Lange 1 remains the king of German watchmaking and the choice for a true watch aficionado.
Best Luxury Watches: Breitling Navitimer
The Breitling Navitimer is the most iconic pilot’s watch ever made. It has been an essential tool for aviators since its debut in 1952. Known for its distinctive slide rule bezel and chronograph functionality, the Navitimer enabled pilots to make critical in-flight calculations long before digital instruments were available. Its technical aesthetic, busy dial, and bold proportions make it instantly recognizable and endlessly cool. While rooted in utility, the Navitimer has also embraced luxury, with diamond-set versions that elevate its aviation heritage into high-style territory. It’s a watch that bridges the gap between cockpit-ready performance and statement-making sophistication.
Best Luxury Watches: Cartier Crash
The Cartier Crash is one of the most daring and unconventional watch designs ever created. Debuting in London in 1967, the Crash broke every rule of traditional watchmaking with its surreal, asymmetrical case, rumored to be inspired by a watch distorted in a car crash. Whether viewed as a symbol of rebellious creativity or a piece of wearable art, the Crash remains a cult favorite among collectors and design aficionados. Diamond-set versions push its avant-garde aesthetic even further, transforming an already rare timepiece into a dazzling expression of individuality. Few watches turn heads like the Cartier Crash, because nothing else looks like it.
Best Luxury Watches: F. P. Journe Elegante
The F.P. Journe Élégante is a masterclass in innovation, elegance, and purpose-driven design. Unlike anything else in high horology, the Élégante features a groundbreaking electro-mechanical movement that goes into sleep mode when not worn, preserving battery life for up to 18 years. Designed with both technical brilliance and refined aesthetics, it embodies François-Paul Journe’s commitment to meaningful innovation. With its sleek tonneau case, minimalist dial, and ultra-thin profile, the Élégante exudes an effortlessly modern feel. Diamond-set versions elevate its sculptural form, marrying cutting-edge watchmaking with high jewelry sophistication. It’s not just a beautiful watch; it’s a revolutionary one that changed how the watch world views luxury.
Best Luxury Watches: Zenith El Primero
The Zenith El Primero is a legend in the world of chronographs, celebrated as the first automatic chronograph movement when it debuted in 1969. Known for its high-frequency precision and integrated column-wheel construction, the El Primero set a new standard for mechanical timing. Its bold tri-color subdials and vintage-inspired case have become unmistakable signatures, beloved by watch enthusiasts and collectors alike. Diamond-set versions of the El Primero add a striking contrast to its sporty, technical DNA, blending rugged performance with subtle sparkle. The El Primero is a milestone in horological history, still ticking at 36,000 vibrations per hour.
