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Director’s Cut: Behind The Scenes of Iconic Films and Fred Leighton Jewelry
How Rebecca Selva selects the jewelry looks behind famous films, and her journey at Fred Leighton.
Kirsten Dunst as Marie Antoinette, wearing late 19th-century diamond earrings by Fred Leighton in Sofia Coppola’s 2006 film Marie Antoinette. (Alamy)
“Call Rebecca at Fred Leighton!” While it was truly surreal hearing Julianne Moore utter my name and this command on the hit Netflix series Sirens, it also sounded very familiar. I love getting calls. I love being involved with cinema and I love doing what I do. Yes, call me any time!
In my career as Chief Creative Officer of Fred Leighton, we have enjoyed a longstanding relationship with Julianne Moore. It was at her request that Sirens’ brilliant costume designer, Caroline Duncan, called me. I said, “Sure! It’s certainly not difficult, and it’s for Julianne!” So, “Call Rebecca” is something I hear quite frequently.
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Julianne Moore Wore Fred Leighton and Kwiat Diamonds in Sirens
For that scene, the Sirens team had requested jewelry for a special presentation to Julianne’s character, Michaela Kell, who would be reviewing options for a gala. I said, “No problem.” A presentation? I certainly know how to do that! I prepared what I thought one should show a lady of Michaela’s standing. It was an impressive collection of Fred Leighton and Kwiat jewels – antique diamonds, classic contemporary diamonds, and, of course, emeralds for Julianne.
What was surprising on the day was that I was actually standing behind Julianne on set as she made the “Call Rebecca” command. Honestly, at that moment I was mostly worried about getting the 19th-century kokoshnik-style diamond necklace around her neck. Julianne was very tall at that moment, as she was wearing platforms, and I was further challenged to get the necklace on her without getting in the way of the shot! Thankfully, mission accomplished!
Caroline Duncan had briefed me on Julianne’s character and what the show was about: Michaela’s power, the idea of sirens, with allusions to Greek mythology. One of the best things I have learned is how to interpret what an editor or a stylist is looking for and to go with this feeling. I immediately understood what Michaela’s everyday jewelry should be: gold that is rich and warm in color, jewelry that is effortlessly chic and glamorous, pieces with a connection to mythology and astrology. Among the pieces selected were a Van Cleef & Arpels 1960s Gemini pendant and chain, and Etruscan revival earrings. We definitely established the vibe. Julianne wore these pieces throughout Episode 4. She herself loves jewelry and has a great appreciation of it. In the presentation scene, she was so at ease speaking about emeralds and yellow diamonds. She is a formidable actress, and she knew the character would be nothing if not specific about her jewelry.
Kirsten Dunst Wore Fred Leighton Jewelry in Sofia Coppola’s 2006 Film, Marie Antoinette
Like diamonds, relationships form naturally over time, and you never know where they will lead. I had worked with Sofia Coppola for the red carpet. Meanwhile, she had seen these amazing antique diamond earrings, which we had presented at one point to Kirsten Dunst.
The earrings had sumptuous pendants with stars and crescent moons. One day, Sofia came to visit Fred Leighton. We chatted. She said that she was doing a film about Marie Antoinette, with Kirsten Dunst starring as the young Queen of France. She loved these earrings and asked if we were interested in lending them for Kirsten’s character. “Of course,” I said, “Absolutely!” So our collaboration on Marie Antoinette began with a pair of magnificent diamond earrings. They had all the magic and the fantasy that you want to bring to such a film. The earrings appear at a pivotal scene in the film where the Queen meets her lover at the ball, her eyes covered in black tulle. The earrings are now displayed in the exhibit “Marie Antoinette Style” at the V&A in London (on view until March 22, 2026). The client who owns them has generously lent them for the exhibit.
In creating the jewelry wardrobe for Marie Antoinette, I looked at 18th century paintings by Fragonard, the pastel color palette, and the jewelry of the period. However, none of the jewelry I selected was period. 18th century jewelry? It’s long lost, or broken apart, and altered in its journey. I selected jewelry from the early 19th century which still conveyed the magic of the era. It was so inspiring to see it used in this context, where it became part of Marie Antoinette’s jewelry in this gorgeous film.
Sarah Jessica Parker Wore Fred Leighton Jewels as Her Iconic Sex and the City Character, Carrie Bradshaw
And then there’s Sex and the City, the show and movies, where we dressed Sarah Jessica Parker’s character, Carrie Bradshaw. Sarah Jessica is a lover of jewelry and Fred Leighton, and we love Sarah Jessica! We have had an incredible journey with her over the past 27 years. Patricia Field, the show’s legendary costume designer, loved everything that was interesting, extraordinary, and beautiful; as did Sarah Jessica, and she still does. It was amazing to be part of iconic moments with our jewelry: our diamond briolette earrings in Carrie’s second break up with Aidan, and our antique diamond feather brooch on Carrie’s Vivienne Westwood bridal gown in Sex and the City: The Movie.
We have continued to work with Sarah Jessica Parker in And Just Like That, and have collaborated with someone who is becoming a legend in costume design herself: Molly Rogers. I’ve had so much fun working with Molly over the past three seasons of And Just Like That, both for TV and press. She calls surprise pieces, “Rebecca’s wild card!” I love hearing that. There have been a few wild cards that have made the cut. Most recently, a fantastic 1920s hammered silver bib by Jean Després. Sarah Jessica wore it during the European press tour. I’m excited to see Molly’s work in The Devil Wears Prada 2. Maybe there will be more surprises!
How Florence Pugh Ended Up Wearing a Necklace Meant for Meryl Streep in Little Women
Another legend we have worked with is Meryl Streep, who is often very involved in the jewelry selection for her characters. I loved working with her and costume designer, Jacqueline Durran, for Little Women. I was able to attend a fitting and see Jacqueline’s inspired work. Among the pieces selected for Meryl’s character, Aunt March, was a beautiful antique diamond cross pendant. It found itself worn, instead, by Amy at the ball. I remember getting the call and being asked, “Would you mind if we lent this to Florence Pugh?” I said, “Absolutely not!” I love when jewelry makes an appearance in a different way. She wore it on a beautiful silk ribbon. It was perfect.
Fred Leighton Bejeweled Meryl Streep As Ms. Miranda Priestly in The Devil Wears Prada
It would be remiss not to mention The Devil Wears Prada, with Meryl. The opportunity to provide the jewelry for her character, Miranda Priestly, to work with Pat Field, and to be part of the magic with two legends was incredible. One of the most amazing pieces Miranda wore was a rare 19th century necklace which had been gifted by Edward VII, then the Prince of Wales, to his mistress, the actress Lillie Langtry. It was an Archeological Revival necklace with enamel, so rare and beautiful. Miranda wore it to the office, with a white shirt. Seeing that styling was very exciting because that’s how I think one should wear such a fabulous period necklace. That’s the message we are always communicating: wear and enjoy it.
The coup de grâce is the dramatic scene in Paris, in the car, when Andy (Anne Hathaway) resigns. Miranda was wearing 1950s diamond and sapphire bead earrings by Cartier that had belonged to the Duchess of Windsor. Major. So fabulous and perfect. That’s when I do my job.
Along With a Shining Presence On Screen, Fred Leighton Always Owns the Red Carpet
Beyond the amazing visibility in placements such as in Sirens, Sex and the City, and more, it’s very exciting to see our jewelry become part of building a character. We have this same approach to the red carpet. We are excited to see our jewelry be part of a beautiful and exciting look, but it’s foremost about and a celebration of the person who wears it. The jewelry has to sing to the person. And the person always walks in first. Always, always. That is our way, and an essential part of our collaborations.
One of the loveliest red carpet moments was with Kirsten Dunst for her first Oscars red carpet in 2002. We worked with her talented stylists, Nina and Clare Hallworth. Kirsten had just filmed Spider-Man. She wore a gorgeous pink Cristian Dior Haute Couture dress and our antique diamond jewelry – most notably, a diamond thistle brooch by Boucheron. This piece is now in one of the world’s most important collections of antique jewelry. It’s a rare and splendid jewel and she wore it nestled in her hair.
Everything about Kirsten’s Oscar’s look was perfect for her, she was both fresh and exquisite. That night, as always, Joan Rivers put the spotlight on the jewelry. Joan knew and collected jewelry, and she asked about it! I remember her speaking to Kirsten on the red carpet, and I think it’s when Kirsten said, unforgettably, “I’m wearing Freddy Leighton. And it’s vintage!” I screamed. She charmed Joan and everyone with her smile and genuine excitement. Joan smiled and said, “Yes!” enjoying the moment. She, herself, also loved jewelry and Freddy Leighton!
When putting together a selection for a movie or red carpet, I think in the same way as when I am asked to prepare for a client: I think about what might speak to their style and interest, but also what might be new to them and “a surprise.” I like surprises, something that makes one pause, see something differently, and say “Ohhhh, wow. I didn’t know about that. I didn’t think about that. I didn’t think that this would be for me, but it’s so interesting.” What makes my work exciting is the constant discovery: discovery of beautiful pieces, their story, of connections between pieces and to clients, of how they can be worn, and sharing this.
What’s Next For Fred Leighton?
Now, what’s next for Fred Leighton? Well, we’re moving this Fall! It’s a big move and it’s time. I have loved greeting clients and friends at our current location at 773 Madison. We’ve been here for 33 years, but it’s time for a bigger and better space. This new space, a six-story brownstone on 63rd and Madison, will showcase Fred Leighton, and its parent company, Kwiat, as two important and distinct jewelry brands. We will have a beautiful dedicated space to entertain and host talks about subjects that are interesting and enhance the understanding of jewelry. Jewelry is material culture. It was created by the time it lived in but is connected to other times. There is so much to talk about.
One of the jewelry talks that I would love to do is about men’s jewelry. I am dying to get past cufflinks, and talk about men’s jewelry in history and NOW. Men have historically worn great jewelry, and I would love to give some historical context to this. Brooches on men on the red carpet have recently gotten a bit of attention, and I love seeing men reclaiming this creative wear of jewelry.
So, let’s get some exciting jewelry on men in the movies. I’m ready for the call!
