The Zodiac Necklace Shines Just in Time for Leo Season

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Summer’s Must-Have: The Zodiac Necklace Shines Just in Time for Leo Season

From stargazing to style statements, the zodiac necklace proves that your sign isn’t just written in the stars—it belongs around your neck.

Published July 24, 2025
Written by: Roxanne Robinson

Summer's Must-Have: The Zodiac Necklace Shines Just in Time for Leo Season — (Courtesy of Anita Ko)

When the Hayden Planetarium opened at New York’s American Museum of Natural History in October 1935, it became the nation’s fourth observatory, bringing stargazing to new audiences. Jeweler Duke Fulco di Verdura was one New Yorker enthralled by Charles R. Knight’s celestial Zodiac murals. According to a company spokesperson, Verdura purchased gift shop postcards depicting the paintings, which became a lasting design influence and sparked his fascination with astrology, mythology, and symbolism—elements that would later inspire creations like the modern zodiac necklace.

Meet the Expert

Roxanne Robinson is an award-winning journalist with over 25 years of experience between New York and Paris.
She covers the luxury and fashion industries, spending 18 years as WWD’s Accessories and Jewelry Director.
She is the New York Contributing Editor for Fashion Network, and regularly contributes to the New York Times, the CFDA, Forbes, and more.

Just in time for Leo season—a fire sign associated with passion, creativity, and confidence (and represented by the lion)—Only Natural Diamonds highlights the chicest natural diamond zodiac necklace designs on offer.

The History of the Zodiac Necklace

Duke Fulco di Verdura and Coco Chanel examine a jewelry design in her Paris apartment, circa 1930s—a legendary collaboration that helped shape the future of modern jewelry. (Courtesy of Verdura)

The zodiac necklace has a history as rich and layered as the constellations themselves. From ancient fascination with the stars to modern interpretations in fine jewelry, its evolution reflects our enduring desire to find meaning and beauty in the cosmos.

Verdura’s Vision: How One Jeweler Popularized the Zodiac Necklace

Duke Fulco di Verdura was not alone in this fascination. During the Great Depression of the 1930s, following the 1929 stock market crash, the era’s uncertainty spurred interest in astrology and led to the first newspaper column on the subject. Wearing one’s astrological sign—typically in an Art Deco design or as a zodiac necklace—became a talisman for precarious times.

The Zodiac Necklace as a Symbol of Hope in the 1930s

Fast-forward to the 1960s, when the free love and hippie movement ushered in an era of self-exploration through psychedelics and transcendental meditation. This laid the groundwork for the deeper reflection and self-expression of the New Age 1970s, which aided the reemergence of zodiac signs. The once-in-2,000-plus-year astrological cycle shifting from Pisces to the Age of Aquarius was believed to be underway, turning the “Me Decade” into a “We” era, and setting the stage for the rise of the zodiac necklace as a form of personal expression.

zodiac necklaces layered — From the top: DeBeers, Foundrae

From the Age of Aquarius to the Rise of the Zodiac Necklace

Today, the Hayden Planetarium is dubbed the Rose Center for Earth and Space, following a renovation in 2000. Recently, the space observatory debuted its film Encounters of the Milky Way—sponsored in part by Van Cleef & Arpels and narrated by Pedro Pascal for extra star power—which adds to the current zeitgeist surrounding astrology. As a result, zodiac signs seem ripe for a new renaissance in jewelry—particularly the zodiac necklace. Inspired by Ptolemy, the astronomer who popularized the 12 signs, today’s jewelers are drawn to these motifs, whether depicted as constellations, symbols, or figurative interpretations of each sign’s meaning.

How Designers Use Diamonds to Illuminate the Zodiac Necklace

Natural diamonds play a key role in creating the distinctive look of each zodiac necklace. “We used diamonds for their beauty and symbolic weight. Like stars in the sky, they shine with permanence. Selectively placed to give them depth and radiance,” said Kim-Eva Wempe, a Libra and the owner and managing partner of Wempe.

Briony Raymond, a Gemini and jeweler, was careful to use diamonds to enhance, not overpower. “We highlighted key elements of each sign, adding just enough brilliance to elevate the medallion,” the designer said.

How Jewelry Houses Reimagined the Zodiac Necklace

To revive Verdura’s Zodiac designs, the brand seamlessly integrated the actual shape of each constellation into the hand-engraved pieces, making them feel authentic and harmonious, according to the spokesperson. “The design centers on a constellation of glistening stars, so diamonds were the perfect choice to capture celestial sparkle.”

Founder David Webb—an imaginative Cancer—channeled his love of astrology into various zodiac jewels, including early versions of the zodiac necklace, during his lifetime. “One well-known series was a collection of textured gold belt buckles and money clips. These rectangular designs were shrunken to pendants,” explained Levi Higgs, a Virgo and head of archives and brand heritage at David Webb. “We created a front and a back for the pendants, merging two different design series. The sign’s figural representation is the rectangular belt buckle, and the glyph’s side golden ray burst is from round brooches with diamonds.”

Raymond endeavored to create something truly unique. “The zodiac has been reimagined many times. I wanted each medallion to be instantly recognizable, refined, elevated, and true to the aesthetic,” she said.

The Connecticut-based designer sees zodiac jewelry as a form of connection. Her necklace, shown below, incorporates seven different signs. “I love the idea of layering your sign—a small reminder of who you are—with those of your children, partner, or someone meaningful. It becomes a subtle but powerful way to carry those connections with you.”

The Zodiac Necklace as a Modern Talisman of Connection

zodiac necklace pendants — (Courtesy of Brent Neale)

Brent Neale, a Libra and jewelry designer, has looked to Greek mythology and astrology since high school. For her first zodiac collection, she moved away from her signature cut-stone style. For example, diamond pavé set in platinum serves as a waterfall flowing from an 18K gold pitcher on her Aquarius pendant.

The first motif she designed was Libra. “It set the tone for the collection. I didn’t want to rely on the usual symbols—I wanted each sign to have a personality people could identify with,” Neale told Only Natural Diamonds, adding, “Whether you believe in astrology or not, I don’t think anyone can deny how their personality parallels their astrological chart.” This philosophy guided the development of each zodiac necklace in the collection.