Bringing Chunky Back: All About the Bold and Beautiful Bombe Ring

This must-have is all volume, curves and wearable sculpture.

Published: August 22, 2025
Written by: Shelley Brown

Bringing Chunky Back: All About the Bold and Beautiful Bombe Ring — (Courtesy of Grace Lee)

When Dua Lipa debuted her engagement ring from fiancé Callum Turner, it was a bombshell in more ways than one. First teased in her Christmas Eve Instagram photo dump and later spotted on a stroll through London’s Primrose Hill, the sparkler was impossible to miss (not only for its natural diamond, estimated at over three carats) but for the bold setting itself: an oversized domed gold band that was large, in charge, and unmistakably reminiscent of a bombe ring.

The thick setting confirmed what jewelry editors have known for a while now: maximalism is officially back in jewelry. After years of whisper-thin bands and barely-there chains, those of us drawn to chunky drama are seeing the pendulum swing our way.

Meet the Expert

Brent Neale Winston’s lifelong passion for jewelry began at gem shows with her mother near Baltimore, eventually leading her to pursue formal training at the Fashion Institute of Technology under esteemed mentors like Maurice Galli of Harry Winston.
Before launching her own brand in 2017, Brent served as jewelry director at Kara Ross for eight years, where she honed her skills in design and product development.
Her studio on Manhattan’s 47th Street oversees every detail—from hand-sketching designs to collaborating with top craftsmen.

And while Dua’s engagement ring feels like a revelation, the style is hardly new. In fact, the bombe ring dates back centuries, reemerging time and again when statement-making jewels are en vogue.

Dua Lipa shows off her diamond engagement ring gold and diamond bombe ring — Dua Lipa shows off her diamond engagement ring (Instagram: @dualipa)

Below, discover the fascinating backstory of the bombe ring and the natural diamond versions—both vintage and modern—on our wishlist.

What Is a Bombe Ring?

diamond bombe ring — Grace Lee Pavé Globe Ring, $19,180, gracelee.com

The bombe ring (pronounced bomb-ay, from the French word for “bomb” or “rounded”) is a jewelry design distinguished by its domed, rounded silhouette that swells outward from the finger. Exaggerated curves and height are the bombe ring’s signature elements. Many designs are pavé-set with diamonds, creating a glittering, domed surface that sparkles from every angle. Others showcase colored stones or bold metalwork. Whether bejeweled or not, the bombe ring is a wearable sculpture. (Though the natural diamond versions are obviously our favorites.)

Bombe Rings Through the Ages

The bombe form dates back as far as the Renaissance and 16th-century Europe, when goldsmiths began experimenting with exaggerated, bulbous settings to showcase enamel work and cabochon gems. “You can see the style in portrait paintings dating back to the 1500’s and I’m sure it originated much earlier than that!” says Brent Neale Winston, Founder and Designer of Brent Neale Jewelry. The rounded shape provided a generous surface for embellishment and became a canvas for intricate craftsmanship.

During the Georgian and Victorian eras, bombe forms were used in rings and other jewels, often encrusted with rose-cut diamonds or decorated with chased metalwork. The domed style gave pieces a bold, architectural profile, contrasting with the flatter designs of earlier periods.

The bombe ring reached its peak popularity in the 1940s–1960s, particularly in Parisian high jewelry houses like Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels. These jewelers embraced the voluptuous, rounded form to create dramatic cocktail rings set with pavé diamonds, cabochon sapphires, emeralds, or rubies. The design’s sculptural quality reflected the post-war appetite for statement jewelry that radiated glamour and optimism.

“The style has evolved so much over the past 10 years, and each one we make is really specific to how much gold the client wants to see or the scale of the stones and finger size all play a role,” Winston says.

Modern Takes on the Bombe Ring

Today’s designers are reinventing the bombe with their own signatures. Brent Neale brings a playful touch with candy-colored enamel and whimsical gemstone pairings. In fact, the bombe ring holds a special place in the designer’s heart, as she reset her own engagement ring in the style. “I did my own engagement ring in the style after I stopped wearing my prong set engagement ring when I had my first child. It was scratching him and wasn’t ever that comfortable, so I reset it and then made another ring to layer with it with my children’s birthstone (sapphires for my twin girls and emerald for my son),” she says.

Ashley Zhang nods to vintage silhouettes, refining them into elegant, everyday versions. Grace Lee interprets the dome as pure architecture, stripped down to minimalist, sculptural lines. Jemma Wynne elevates the silhouette with diamond-studded statement pieces that exude effortless glamour. Mociun has a less expected approach, pairing unusual stones with asymmetrical geometry. And Cece Jewellery infuses romance, blending bombe silhouettes with her signature hand-painted enamel and antique-inspired details.

Vintage Bombe Rings

For collectors and connoisseurs, vintage bombes are irresistible. Fred Leighton curates some of the most exquisite mid-century examples, while 1stDibs remains a global marketplace for both European originals and retro American styles. London-based Berganza is a destination for rare antique rings with impeccable provenance. Auction houses such as Christie’s and Sotheby’s, regularly feature bombe designs in their estate sales, making them prime sources for both iconic pieces and hidden gems.

How to Wear a Bombe Ring

The beauty of the bombe ring is its versatility. “The best thing about them is that they can stand by themselves and also look amazing as a chunky stack,” says Winston. The versatility also extends to design: the bombe style works with virtually any diamond shape, metal color, or gemstone combination. “We’ve made them with every single cut out there! I’m partial to an Asscher—but don’t tell the others,” she says.

To find the right fit for you, try one on in person to see how the voluminous proportions work on your hand. You might discover that the all-out dome style is the most flattering, or that a more understated curved band is your perfect match. “I think people really need to try some on and see what shapes look best with their hand,” Winston says.

Whether you love the clean geometry of an Asscher, the soft romance of a cushion, or the fire of a brilliant cut, the bombe silhouette offers the perfect stage to let a natural diamond shine. The voluminous setting also adds instant presence to any ring stack, while also holding its own when worn solo.

Bombe Rings We Love

Ready to shop? Ahead, discover our edit of bombe rings—from modern designers redefining the silhouette to vintage finds that prove its staying power. Consider this your guide to adding dome-shaped drama to your jewelry collection.