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These 90s Jewelry Trends Will Quench Your Thirst for Nostalgia
All the best 90s jewelry trends have returned for another round, with nostalgic styles brought back to life with natural diamonds.
Italian fashion designer Donatella Versace poses with a group of models at the ‘Diamonds Are Forever’ fashion show, hosted by De Beers and Versace on June 9, 1999. (Getty Images)
The enduring staying power of ’90s jewelry lies in its versatility. Whether you’re going for a minimalist look, grunge, something futuristic, or glamazon maximalism, there’s a perfect diamond jewelry staple for you, indicative of the decade.
A fresh wave of ’90s-style obsession has arrived with the release of Ryan Murphy’s FX series, Love Story: John F. Kennedy Jr. & Carolyn Bessette. The series has rekindled a fascination for all things CBK, Calvin Klein, Kate Moss, Naomi Campbell, and the rest of the supers, along with their style choices.
While trends are fickle, the decade’s signature jewels have endured – never really going out of style. Many ’90s jewelry mainstays have retained their cultural capital today, like the diamond nameplate necklace, the cross necklace, chokers, and the arm cuff. There are also diamond hoop earrings and the sensual bedazzled belly chain to go with low-rise jeans. And let’s not forget about classic diamond tennis essentials that perfectly complement a ’90s slip dress and kitten heels.
Meet the Experts
Loree Rodkin is an LA-based jewelry designer, most known for her diamond gothic crosses. Since 1988, her jewelry has been beloved by Elizabeth Taylor, Elton John, Madonna, Mary J. Blige, Cher, Rihanna, Steven Tyler, and many more.
Elizabeth Way is a fashion historian, published author, and Curator at The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology (MFIT), where she specializes in 20th-century fashion and jewelry history.
Rebecca Selva is the Chief Creative Officer of Fred Leighton, a legendary jeweler renowned for its exceptional collection of vintage and antique pieces. She has spent the last 30 years curating period jewelry across all eras, dressing Hollywood’s brightest stars.
Designer Stephanie Gottlieb founded Stephanie Gottlieb Fine Jewelry in 2013. Known for its custom creations and celebrity fans, Gottlieb’s jewelry maintains a legacy of elite craftsmanship and the use of ethically sourced materials and natural diamonds.
Jacquie Aiche is the founder of her eponymous jewelry brand, based in Los Angeles, California. Her jewelry has been worn and adored by celebrities like Salma Hayek, Hailey Bieber, Behati Prinsloo, and more.
An iconic decade for fashion, fine jewelry also defined the era. Who could forget the “Carrie necklace” from Sex and the City? Or the Heart of the Ocean from Titanic? Everyone remembers the iconic scene in Pretty Woman, when Richard Gere surprises Julia Roberts with a jewelry box, only to playfully snap it shut just as she reaches for the treasure inside—eliciting her now-famous burst of laughter. Inside lay a dazzling necklace of 23 pear-shaped rubies, each encircled by natural diamond hearts, created by French jeweler Fred Joaillier. Worn with Vivian’s unforgettable red gown and white opera gloves, the piece became one of the most memorable jewels in modern cinema, forever tied to the film’s fairy-tale transformation.
The fashion world began to garner unprecedented mainstream attention in the ’90s, and diamonds were along for the ride. In 1996, Victoria’s Secret unveiled the very first Fantasy Bra with a five-story poster of Claudia Schiffer wearing the “Million-Dollar Miracle” Bra, featuring over 100 carats of natural diamonds. The first of its kind, the brassiere was designed by four New York City-based private jewelers and was valued at $1 million. While it was only featured in advertisements like billboards and in the catalogue in 1996, Tyra Banks ended up wearing the prized piece in the 1999 fashion show.
One of the most memorable runway shows of the decade even revolved around diamonds. In 1999, Donatella Versace showcased shimmering chainmail dresses on the most famous supermodels of the era in the “Diamonds are Forever” fashion show in collaboration with De Beers. The ultimate vision of luxury, the Millennium Celebration saw stars like Kate Moss, Naomi Campbell, Amber Valletta, and more, who were drenched in shining high fashion and diamond high jewelry.
Here, take a deep dive into the best ’90s jewelry essentials, deserving of a retro redux.
1. Diamond Tennis Necklaces
Defined by a push and pull between lingering ’80s maximalism and emerging sleek minimalism, ’90s jewelry trends captured the spirit of a new decade. A cornerstone of the modern jewelry wardrobe, the diamond tennis necklace could toe the line between the two as a versatile, classic jewel. A Calvin Klein muse, like Kate Moss, could simply wear a single tennis necklace solo with her monochromatic slip dress, while a Glamazon could layer them to the high heavens with bright and bold Versace prints.
Anita Ko LARGE GRADUATED DIAMOND HEPBURN CHOKER, $69,825, anitako.com
Suzanne Kalan La Fantasie Cosmic Diamond Tennis Necklace $39,000, suzannekalan.com
Graff White Oval Diamond Graduated Line Necklace, $140,000, graff.com
Anita Ko Graduated Bezel Marquis Diamond Choker, $51,775, anitako.com
Stephanie Gottlieb Adjustable Diamond Tennis Choker $9,490, stephaniegottlieb.com
Lizzie Mandler XS Knife Edge and Tennis Link Necklace, $35,560, lizziemandler.com
2. Diamond Eternity Bands
Another symbol of minimalism in ’90s jewelry is the diamond eternity band. Icons of the decade like Calvin Klein and the brand’s public relations specialist-turned-American royalty, Carolyn Bessette Kennedy, championed the subtle style.
In 1987, Calvin Klein purchased a diamond eternity band for his wife, Kelly Rector, at the Sotheby’s estate sale of The Jewels of the Duchess of Windsor. Created around 1962 by the Parisian jeweler Darde et Fils, the ring featured vertically set emerald-cut diamonds wedged between two bands of yellow gold. One year after gifting his wife this historical diamond eternity band, Klein introduced his unforgettable fragrance, aptly named Eternity by Calvin Klein.
In 1995, John F. Kennedy Jr. proposed to fashion publicist Carolyn Bessette with a natural diamond and sapphire eternity band, inspired by his mother, Jackie Kennedy’s “swimming ring.”
3. Diamond Nameplate Necklaces
In the early ‘90s, diamond nameplate necklaces spiked in popularity amongst Black, Latino and Italian-American youth culture. An assertion of pride and identity with an affirmation of individuality, the nameplate found love within the hip-hop circuit. Rapper Da Brat was rarely seen without her iconic “BRAT” natural diamond nameplate on a gold chain. Lil’ Kim was known to pair her diamond necklace with her diamond “B” initial necklace, topped with a crown, cementing her status as the “Queen Bee” of the rap world.
While far from the originator of the trend, the nameplate necklace hit the “mainstream” once it was featured in the HBO hit series Sex and the City. Carrie Bradshaw, played by Sarah Jessica Parker, was known for her fantastic wardrobe and jewelry box. As iconic as her beloved Manolo Blahnik heels and Fendi baguette bags, the gold “Carrie necklace” became synonymous with the stylish character, inspiring countless “dupes” throughout the show’s six-season run, from 1998 to 2004.
The necklace features a diamond, dotting the “i” in Carrie. Costume designer Patricia Field has credited the “kids in the neighborhood” around her New York City boutique as the inspiration for the piece. Carrie famously loses the emblematic necklace in one of the final episodes of the series—only to find it again in a symbolic moment.
According to author and curator at The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology, Elizabeth Way, the nameplate necklace was seen as a signifier of a coming-of-age, or a rite of passage, among Black, Latino, and Italian-American youth culture. She tells Only Natural Diamonds that the nameplate was “a part of the everyday fashion landscape” that Patricia Field was observing in New York City. “Taking that inspiration and styling it on Sarah Jessica Parker definitely introduced it to mainstream audiences who might have been unfamiliar with just how prevalent and traditional it was in New York and other cities.”
Lana Jewelry Custom Diamond Tennis Nameplate Necklace, Price Upon Request, lanajewelry.com.
Ring Concierge Personalized Diamond Script Name Necklace
$1,098, ringconcierge.com.
Kay Jewelers Diamond Script Name Necklace 1/20 ct tw 14K Yellow Gold, $2,999.99, kay.com.
Jade Trau Nameplate Necklace, $3,400, jadetrau.com.
Eriness Diamond Resist Necklace, $1,650, eriness.com.
EF Collection Luxe Diamond Script Name Necklace, $3,395, efcollection.com.
Ice Box Custom Script Letter Nameplate Diamond Pendant, $1,000, icebox.com.
Alison Lou Custom Word Necklace, $775, alisonlou.com.
Shay Jewelry Diamond Baguette Threads 7 Letter Name Necklace, $23,000, shayjewelry.com.
4. Diamond Cross Necklaces
After Madonna memorably layered cross pendants in her “Like a Virgin” look in 1984, the A-list of the 90’s continued to carry the mantle. Over time, the influence of the cross has stretched far beyond the Christian faith, cementing a permanent place in pop culture.
Whether worn as a symbol of one’s religion, a talisman of hope, or simply a style choice, the diamond cross necklace has endured for millennia. A ’90s jewelry staple, superstars of the time like Whitney Houston, Pamela Anderson, Mary J. Blige, Catherine Zeta-Jones, Eve, Jennifer Lopez, Jennifer Aniston, and more sported diamond cross necklaces from gothic styles and rosaries to classic versions.
“Religious imagery, such as the cross, was always something powerful to me,” jewelry designer Loree Rodkin tells Only Natural Diamonds. The LA jeweler has made crosses a staple of her design DNA since founding her brand nearly 40 years ago. “My brand was built on gothic imagery, with the cross showing up frequently.”
As “Posh Spice,” Victoria Beckham walked the red carpet at the Spice World premiere in 1998, wearing a large diamond cross pendant. The cross appeared on the runways of Christian Lacroix, Dolce & Gabbana, and Versace. Supermodels like Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, and Kate Moss wore them on and off the catwalk.
Graff Round Diamond Cross Medium Pendant, $16,400, graff.com
Jessica McCormack Oval Diamond Cross Pendant, $42,000, jessicamccormack.com
Loree Rodkin Large Gothic Diamond Cross Pendant, $17,000, marissacollections.com
Andria Barbone Celina Cross Necklace, $39,500, andriabarbone.com
Sylva & Cie Black Diamond Cross Pendant, $10,375, marissacollections.com
Victorian Antique Diamond and Black Enamel Cross Necklace, $6,750, langantiques.com
Edwardian Diamond Cross With Emerald Accents, $5,500, 1stdibs.com
Buddha Mama Peridot and Diamond Heart Cross Pendant, $53,300, marissacollections.com
Rainbow K Jewelry NECKLACE LACE CROSS, Price Upon Request, rainbowkjewelry.com
David Yurman PETITE MODERN RENAISSANCE CROSS NECKLACE, $1,500, davidyurman.com
Marie Lichtenberg Cross Scapular, $12,200, marielichtenberg.com
David Yurman Crossover Cross Necklace, $3,150, davidyurman.com
Briony Raymond Athena Diamond Cross Pendant, $11,500, brionyraymond.com
5. Arm Cuffs
Call it a bicep bangle, an armlet, or an arm cuff—wearing a striking diamond bracelet high above the wrist is a bold jewelry choice that has maintained its relevance for thousands of years. The style experienced an explosion of popularity during the late 1990s and early 2000s. Uma Thurman sported one at the 1999 Oscars, and just a few months later, Nicole Kidman wore a wild gemstone armband to the premiere of Eyes Wide Shut. During Janet Jackson’s The Velvet Rope era, she posed for album art wearing a diamond and sapphire arm cuff.
Still all the rage into Y2K, the armlet took on a bold, statement-making edge—Aaliyah wore a regal, bejeweled version to the 2000 MTV Movie Awards, while Keira Knightley opted for a golden snake bicep bracelet coiling up her arm at the Pride and Prejudice New York premiere. With tastemakers like these championing the trend, the timeless allure of the arm cuff continues to captivate A-listers of today.
These days, the diamond arm cuff has wrapped itself around Bella Hadid, Rihanna, Dua Lipa, Nicola Peltz-Beckham, Zoë Kravitz, and Zendaya, and appeared on the runways of Prada, Tory Burch, Fendi, Blumarine, and more. Style maven Alexa Chung just stepped out at Paris Fashion Week in a sparkling natural diamond bicep bangle.
DIANE KORDAS 9-karat gold diamond arm cuff, $3,255, net-a-porter.com
Jessica McCormack, Orbit 1.21ct Pear-Shaped Diamond Arm Bangle, $45,000, jessicamccormack.com
Messika D-VIBES MULTI-ROW BRACELET, $26,100, messika.com
AMRAPALI LONDON Jali 18-karat gold diamond bangle, $17,100, net-a-porter.com
DIANE KORDAS 9-karat rose gold diamond cuff, $3,690, net-a-porter.com
Jessica McCormack Orbit 1.22ct Oval Diamond Arm Bangle, $38,000, jessicamccormack.com
John Hardy Naga Flex Cuff, Gold, Diamonds, $12,000, johnhardy.com
MARINA B Trisolina Bypass 18-karat yellow and white gold diamond bracelet, 7,500, net-a-porter.com
6. Diamond Tiaras
At the height of admiration for “The People’s Princess,” Princess Diana, celebrities began to mirror the royal with extravagant diamond tiaras – wearing them on red carpets and even down the aisle in the 1990s.
In 1993, Mariah Carey married music executive Tommy Mottola, wearing a gown to emulate Diana’s, along with a bejeweled headpiece to go along with her cascading veil. Musician Courtney Love even turned up at the 1995 Vanity Fair Oscar Party, ironically wearing a toy tiara. At the 1997 Oscars, Salma Hayek wore a vintage diamond tiara from Fred Leighton, styled by Rebecca Selva. At the time, Hayek said, “Where else is a girl going to wear a tiara if it’s not to the Oscars?”
The actress told Vogue about how her team felt about her decision to wear the diamond headpiece. “Everyone told me I was crazy and that it would be ridiculous, it would be pretentious, and everyone tried to convince me, like my manager, my stylist, and my publicist,” she said. “I wore the tiara anyway, and you know what happened? Everybody started wearing a tiara after that.”
Selva tells Only Natural Diamonds, “We were so excited because a tiara hadn’t been seen on the red carpet, and here she was. It was so beautiful.” She says, “It was old Hollywood, it was like Elizabeth Taylor wearing a tiara, and it was a beautiful moment. She really was giving a nod to the glamour of the moment, to the history of the moment. She was utterly glamorous.”
The latter half of 1997 was marked by the loss of two of fashion’s most influential figures— Gianni Versace in July and Princess Diana in August. When supermodel Iman attended the Met Gala that December in a white and bronze embellished Versace gown, paired with a diamond floral tiara, the moment carried added resonance. That year’s exhibition honored Versace, whose close relationship with the Princess of Wales underscored the emotional weight of the evening.
7. Diamond Chokers
Moving through time and adapting to the trends of the moment, chokers come in all shapes, sizes, and proportions. With the grunge aesthetic and low-key glamour taking hold, ‘90s jewelry lovers saw the rise in spiky chokers, fabric versions, lace variations, tattoo chokers, and even those with huge flowers attached. But the most memorable chokers remain timeless with the help of natural diamonds.
Jewelry designer Stephanie Gottlieb describes the diamond choker as “the ultimate ‘I’ve arrived’ moment.” She tells Only Natural Diamonds, “It hugs the neck with just the right amount of attitude — equal parts glam and edge. As a designer, I love how it turns up the drama without saying a word. It’s not just jewelry; it’s a power move in sparkle form.”
At the 1999 Oscars, Gwyneth Paltrow went home with her new golden trophy and her Harry Winston diamond jewels. Paltrow walked the red carpet in a cotton-candy pink Ralph Lauren gown, teamed with a 40-carat Harry Winston Diamond Princess choker necklace and matching diamond cluster earrings.
After winning the Academy Award for Best Actress thanks to her role in Shakespeare in Love, her father, Bruce Paltrow, decided to commemorate her win and purchase the sentimental necklace, despite its $160,000 price tag, and the jeweler added the $25,000 earrings at no charge. She told Vogue, “After I won, my dad, as a present, surprised me with them. Now I’m gonna cry. So, that was very sweet. And, I wore the earrings and necklace when I got married to Brad [Falchuk] in homage to my dad as a way of keeping him there with us.”
Shay Jewelry DIAMOND MESH CHOKER, Price Upon Request, shayjewelry.com
Pasquale Bruni Heart To Earth Collier, $218,000, pasqualebruni.com
Yessayan The Wavy Diamond Choker, Price Upon Request, yessayan.com
BUCCELLATI ÉTOILÉE WHITE GOLD NECKLACE WITH DIAMONDS, $60,000, buccellati.com
Sartoro Geneve Trilogie Allure Iconic Choker $76,800, sartorogeneve.com
MESSIKA DESERT BLOOM CHOKER SKINNY, $41,700, messika.com
Chanel BOUTON DE CAMÉLIA CHOKER, $53,100, chanel.com
Shay DIAMOND TRIPLE THREAD ILLUSION CHOKER, $29,320, shayjewelry.com
Boucheron Quatre Radiant Edition Necklace , $139,000, boucheron.comre
Joseph Saidian and Sons Diamond Choker, $90,000, saidiansons.com
8. Diamond Hoop Earrings
Diamond hoop earrings never go out of style. While the circulate silhouette first became popular in the 19th century, hoops were reintroduced into the fold during the disco days of the 1970s, reimagined in the era of excess in the 1980s, and hit their peak as a ’90s jewelry must-have. The standout style created a nice contrast against the canvases of the minimalist ensembles and neutral color choices of the decade. Christina Aguilera, Jennifer Lopez, and Janet Jackson all gave diamond hoops the pop star seal of approval.
Gabriel & Co. 14K White Gold 50mm Round Inside Out Diamond Hoop Earrings, $13,000, gabrielny.com
Graff Round Diamond Petite Hoop Earrings, $53,900, graff.com
Anita Ko DIAMOND TWISTED HOOPS, $12,500, anitako.com
Material Good Large Multi-Shape Open Hoop Earrings, $12,100, materialgood.com
Jacquie Aiche Double Row Diamond Shaker Hoops, $12,100, jacquieaiche.com
Nikos Koulis Yellow Gold Hoop Earrings with White Diamond Baguettes, Price Upon Request, nikoskoulis.com
9. Diamond Belly Chains
We all remember the heady days of the 1990s and Y2K, when arbiters of taste, like Aaliyah, Britney Spears, Christina Aguilera, Halle Berry, and Paris Hilton, all wore metallic and diamond-bedazzled belly chains above their very low-rise jeans. In 1994, Chanel presented the Spring / Summer 1995 ready-to-wear collection in Paris, sending models down the runway in bikinis and sparkling belly chains.
Now, our favorite it-girls, like Rihanna, Hailey Bieber, and the Kardashian-Jenners, have adopted the trend. A long-time champion of the diamond body chain, designer Jacquie Aiche has kept the jewelry staple in her rotation since day one. “Body chains have been a part of my collection since the very beginning, around 2007,” Aiche tells Only Natural Diamonds. “Everything I design is based on intuition and feeling, so when such inspiring women adorn themselves in our body chains, it means the world to me.”
Jacquie Aiche Graduated 3×11 Sophia Diamond Belly Chain, $21,935, jacquieaiche.com
Isa Grutman Diamond Belly Chain, $3,980, isagrutman.com
Jacquie Aiche 26 Round + Marquise Diamond Belly Chain, $13,835, jacquieaiche.com
Isa Grutman Marquise Diamond Belly Chain, $4,580, isagrutman.com
10. Diamond Chandelier Earrings
Few things can compete with the glorious regality of an intricate diamond chandelier earrings hovering above your shoulders. A maximum impact with minimal effort, this carefree approach yields high-glam results. Throwing on a pair of diamond chandelier earrings instantly amps up the color tones and relaxed styles of the 90s.
Defined by multiple tiers of cascading natural diamonds, gemstones, pearls, or beads, the perennial jewelry staple will never go out of style, thanks to its rich history and enduring allure.
Harry Winston Diamond Chandelier Earrings, Price Upon Request, harrywinston.com
Jenna Blake Blackened Diamond Chandelier Earrings, Price Upon Request, jennablake.com
Mindi Mond New York Hauté Joaillerie Diamond Chandelier Earrings, Price Upon Request, mindimondnewyork.com
Jenna Blake Deco Chandelier Earrings, Price Upon Request, jennablake.com
Martin Katz Rain Chandelier Diamond Earrings, Price Upon Request, martinkatz.com
Harry Winston Winston Cluster Diamond Cascading Earrings, Price Upon Request, harrywinston.com
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