Diamond Shapes:
A Guide to Choosing the Perfect Cut

Diamond shape refers to the geometric outline and overall form of a diamond as viewed from above. There are several popular shapes, including round brilliant, oval, pear, princess, cushion, emerald, Asscher, marquise, radiant, and heart—each offering a distinct style and sparkle.

But beyond aesthetics, diamond shape can also influence how a ring looks on your hand. Choosing the right cut can enhance finger length, balance proportions, and even make a stone appear larger. If you’ve ever wondered, “What engagement ring suits my hand?” the answer often starts with shape.

For example, oval cut diamonds elongate shorter or wider fingers while offering a modern, larger-looking silhouette. Cushion cut diamonds tend to suit most hand types, especially when paired with a halo setting, which can add softness and visual size.


Oval Diamond
Princess Cut Diamond
Marquise Cut Diamond
Pear Shaped Diamond
Round brilliant diamond
Round Brilliant Cut
Cushion Cut Diamond
Asscher Cut Diamond
Radiant Cut Diamond
step cut
Emerald Cut Diamond
Heart Shaped Diamond

Oval Diamond

The oval cut is an elongated version of the round brilliant cut, combining the brilliance of a round diamond with a more unique, oval shape. With 58 facets, oval shaped diamonds produce the same sparkle and fire as the round cut, but its elongated shape creates a larger appearance. In recent years, oval cut diamonds have surged in popularity, showing up on the fingers of celebrities like Hailey Bieber and Blake Lively. 

Because of its elongated proportions, the oval cut is especially flattering on shorter or wider fingers, creating a lengthening effect while maximizing perceived size.

Princess Cut Diamond

The princess cut is a square or rectangular shape with pointed corners. Introduced in the 1980s, the princess cut diamond combines the brilliance of the round brilliant cut with the sharp, clean lines of a square, creating a dynamic diamond shape. The princess cut has 58 facets that contribute to its vibrant sparkle, making it a popular choice for modern engagement rings. 

Its structured, geometric shape works particularly well on longer fingers, where its clean lines feel balanced and contemporary.

Marquise Diamond

The marquise cut diamond is an elongated diamond with pointed ends, resembling the shape of an eye. This cut was created in the 18th century for King Louis XV of France. According to legend, it was designed to resemble the shape of the lips of his mistress, Madame de Pompadour. Due to its elongated, unique shape, the marquise cut maximizes carat weight, giving the diamond a larger surface area and making it appear more substantial than other cuts. 

Like oval cuts, marquise diamonds can elongate the look of the finger, making them a strong choice for creating a slimming, lengthened effect.

Pear Shaped Diamond

The pear-shaped diamond (also called a pear-cut diamond) is a hybrid of the round and marquise cuts, featuring a rounded top with a pointed end. Often referred to as a “teardrop” shape, the pear cut combines the brilliance of the round cut with the elongated appearance of the marquise, making it a popular choice for those looking for a distinctive diamond. 

This shape can visually lengthen fingers while adding a directional, slightly more unconventional feel.

Round Brilliant Cut Diamond

The round brilliant cut is the most popular and timeless diamond shape, accounting for approximately 75% of all diamonds sold. It features 58 facets, which are carefully arranged to maximize the diamond’s ability to reflect light. Since this diamond shape maximizes light reflection, it is the most forgiving of inclusions and blemishes. Pro tip: While all round brilliant cut diamonds are round, not all round diamonds (sometimes called a classic round diamond) are brilliant cut—the round brilliant cut is a specific style of cut for a round-shaped diamond. 

Its balanced proportions make it universally flattering across all hand shapes, which is part of its enduring appeal.

Cushion Cut Diamond

The cushion cut is a square or rectangular diamond with rounded corners, resembling the shape of a pillow. This classic cut dates back to the 18th century and has a romantic, vintage-inspired aesthetic. The cushion cut diamond features larger facets, which give it a softer, more glowing appearance. 

Cushion cuts are known for their versatility, suiting most hand types. When paired with a halo setting, they can appear larger and add extra softness to the overall look.

Asscher Cut Diamond

The Asscher cut is a square version of the emerald cut, characterized by its cropped corners and step-cut facets, which gives it more of a square shape. Developed in the early 1900s by Joseph Asscher, a member of the renowned Asscher family of diamond cutters from Amsterdam, the Asscher cut has a vintage, art-deco-inspired design. Like the emerald cut, it emphasizes clarity and color, and its large, open facets can reveal the internal characteristics of the diamond. 

Its symmetrical, structured shape works best on longer fingers where its bold geometry can shine.

Radiant Cut Diamond

The radiant cut is a square or rectangular shape with cropped corners, combining the brilliance of the round cut with the elegance of the emerald cut. The radiant cut has 70 facets, creating an intense sparkle. It’s known for its versatility and works well in a variety of ring settings, providing a vibrant, fiery appearance. 

Its versatility makes it flattering on many hand shapes, especially for those who want both brilliance and structure.

Emerald Cut Diamond

The emerald cut is a rectangular shape with trimmed corners and step-cut facets. (Other popular diamond shapes in the step cut family include Asschers and baguettes.) Unlike other diamond shapes, which focus on brilliance and sparkle, the emerald cut highlights the diamond’s clarity and color. This cut features long, straight facets that create a unique “hall of mirrors” effect. The emerald cut diamond’s refined, understated look appeals to those seeking an elegant, timeless style. 

Its elongated lines naturally complement longer fingers and create a sleek, sophisticated silhouette.

Heart-Shaped Diamond

A heart-shaped diamond is a modified brilliant cut that combines the shape of a traditional round diamond with a distinctive heart shape, making it a popular choice for romantic occasions such as engagements or anniversaries. It features a rounded top with a cleft (indentation) at the point, resembling a heart. 

Because of its bold, symbolic shape, it tends to stand out best on smaller hands where the silhouette remains clearly defined.


Diamond Shape vs Diamond Cut:
What’s the Difference?

When shopping for an engagement ring, two terms often come up: diamond shape and diamond cut. While they may seem interchangeable, they refer to distinct aspects of a diamond. Diamond shape describes the diamond’s overall form—whether it’s round, oval, pear, or another silhouette. Diamond cut, on the other hand, refers to how well the diamond has been faceted to reflect light, which impacts its brilliance and fire. For instance, two diamonds with the same shape—like a round diamond—can have different levels of sparkle based on their cut quality. Understanding both factors ensures you select a diamond that not only has the aesthetic you desire but also maximizes its brilliance.

What is a Fancy-Shaped Diamond?

According to the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), a fancy-shaped diamond refers to any diamond shape other than round. This includes popular shapes like oval, pear, marquise, cushion, emerald, Asscher, radiant, princess, and heart-shaped diamonds. Unlike round brilliant diamonds, which are cut for maximum sparkle, fancy shapes offer a variety of styles, proportions, and facet arrangements, allowing for unique expressions of personal style.


Natural Diamond Council (NDC) is a not-for-profit organization dedicated to promoting and protecting the integrity of the natural diamond industry worldwide. NDC serves as the authoritative voice for natural diamonds, inspiring and educating consumers on their real, rare and responsible values.
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