What Does The Crystal Ball Say?

2023 is here, with all the sparkle and hope a new year brings.

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Diamonds are on an upswing, as the global market for luxury jewellery is expected to increase to more than $60 billion this year per a recent forecast by Euromonitor International. When we asked the reigning experts about what’s on their diamond radar, most of them had similar things to say—standout jewels, antique pieces and fresh design talent. We present to you the findings from our exacting crystal ball about the natural diamond trends that are going to shine the brightest in 2023.

1. Tell A Story
Individuality will reign supreme in 2023. Wear heirloom pieces with new buys, build out an ear stack with curated diamonds from across the world—jewellery is set to become a strong means of expression. How does one style their natural diamonds to reflect themselves authentically? “It is important to ask yourself how you feel when you wear your jewels—do they tell your story at that time? So, if one morning I wake up and want to stack every piece I have, I no longer shy away from it. It could be my favourite star earrings, with two sets of diamond ear cuffs worn with a handful of rings”, says Nonita Kalra, Editor-in-Chief, Tata CLiQ Luxury.

This expression doesn’t have to be reserved for special occasions. Buyers are increasingly choosing to invest in real diamond jewellery that can be worn on the daily and become a natural extension of their look. “Personally I think bringing that luxury to everyday outfits is something everyone deserves. For instance, dress up your tailored workwear with a pair of diamond drop earrings, a pendant with a delicate white or rose gold chain or a diamond-studded watch. Keep it classic & simple, yet very effective”, shares costume designer & fashion stylist Divyak D’Souza.

In a time of visual information overload it is easy to be influenced by popular media thereby diluting individuality. Creative director and stylist Jahnvi Bansal advises holding on to your roots when it comes to selecting jewellery.

“Your diamonds should tell the story of where you come from—it is so personal. Wearing heirloom pieces means you’re borrowing style from your mother and probably even your great grandmother which portrays such a unique tale of your family”

Stylist Jahnvi Bansal
             Artist Interpretation of Chopard’s Red Carpet Collection Rose Brooch

2. Bid Adieu To The Rules
Fine jewellery is set to be redefined as art—unconventional pieces will take centre stage and unique styling combinations will emerge.

Globally renowned jewellery insider Katerina Perez recently released a list of her standout high jewellery designs for the year 2022 and unsurprisingly the top three were all brooches—Chinese jewellery Feng J’s Blooming Dragonly Diva Brooch, Boucheron’s Bois Diamant Brooch and Chopard’s Red Carpet Collection Rose Brooch. The often-overlooked accessory has had a sparkling resurgence set to continue in the Artist Interpretation of Chopard’s Red Carpet Collection Rose Brooch new year. “I’ve always been fascinated with the versatility of the brooch. Within the realm of high jewellery, it was the first to be considered ‘unisex’, with many male celebrities wearing them on the red carpet. They can also be worn in several ways, both as an accessory to an outfit or as an ornamental hairpiece”, opined Perez on her blog.

Given the investment natural diamond jewellery demands, 2023 will be all about getting creative with the pieces you own. Fashion stylist Manisha Melwani who is behind several unique celebrity looks in India recommends styling earrings as brooches on a blazer. “Look for precious, exquisite pieces instead of following the current trend. The consciousness for antique and pre-loved jewellery I believe will increase [in the coming year]”, she shares.

Unconventional materials such as marble, ebony, ceramic, onyx and amazonite are making their way into fine jewellery as patrons are looking for unusual, masterful designs. The complex manufacturing process combined with the prestige of natural diamonds and precious gemstones have hit a chord with buyers looking to redefine their jewellery collection. In the coming year, Jahnvi Bansal has her eyes set on diamond jewels featuring enamelling.

3. An Investment Purchase
This year, trust your gut while making the decision to buy fine jewellery—a minimal bauble you will get great wear out of or even a statement collector’s piece you simply cannot stop thinking about. Personal fine jewellery advisor Arundhati De Sheth rarely plans what jewellery she will get next. “I am fortunate to see wonderful pieces on a daily basis. If something comes my way when the timing is right for me financially and emotionally, I buy it.” On her radar currently is an antique gold choker with old natural diamond polkis, a Studio Renn concrete ring with a natural diamond and something eccentric for her ears from jeweller Hanut Singh.

The demand for novel jewellery will see a rise in 2023. Nonita Kalra anticipates seeing a lot more colour this year—bold bright gemstones paired with standout diamonds.

“I think of it as a carnival of stones, a festival where they will come together to have a party. This also means that the trend of stacking will continue because nothing succeeds like excess.”

The love for all things bygone will continue as people look to invest in one-of-a-kind pieces. This year Manisha Melwani is saving up to buy a Victorian necklace with black diamonds for the love of all things antique. Jahnvi Bansal predicts the return of vintage classic styles, especially minimalistic European jewellery. “This comes as no surprise since diamonds themselves are timeless”, she says.

4. Look Under The Radar, You’re Sure To Find Some Treasure
The bounty of jewellery design talent around the world is astounding. Yes, the marquee luxury houses are iconic but there is a unique joy attached to discovering and supporting young designers.

Close to home in India, Arundhati De Sheth recommends watching out for avant garde jewellers Studio Renn and Sajjante from Mumbai, Jaipur based Tallin which combines a unique India meets Italy spirit in their designs and finally VAK Jewels which aims to push the boundaries of Indian jewellery craftsmanship. There has been a growing global appreciation for jewels made in India, she says, adding that the allure in the West for all things Jaipur is huge. Her advice on picking the right pieces

Artist Interpretation of Studio Renns’ Rainbow Bracket Bracelet

for yourself? “Wear jewellery with a certain irreverence. Buy pieces that are qualitative, use natural diamonds and gems, that are distinctive and convey your personal style.”

On Jahnvi Bansal’s radar is Los Angeles based fine jewellery designer Emily P. Wheeler whose creations have been spotted on both pop icon Rihanna as well as former first lady of the United States Michelle Obama, speaking highly of Wheeler’s versatility in design. For traditional kundan polki jewellery she recommends Jodhpur born Chhatrala Jewels.

Instagram is a great platform to discover unique fine jewellery. The algorithm promotes discoverability which is great for both young brands and customers looking for standout pieces. It turns out that Manisha Melwani’s favourite antique jewellery retailer Audrey & Wolf (based in London) was also an Instagram find. Scroll through their feed and you will find a plethora of diamond jewels that date back decades.

5. A Diamond With Your Name On It
The desire to own customised diamond jewellery is growing among buyers. We’re not simply talking about engraving initials onto engagement rings but personalisation through meaningful design and choosing a unique mix of gemstones.

“People are wearing their jewellery every day, in an individual manner. It is no longer for adornment but for enjoyment”, shares Nonita Kalra who admits she loves her personalised jewellery. “To be special, the piece should be something created for me so that I can wear it as a secret message, close to me, at all times. Perhaps it comes from the fact that I would watch my mother & grandmother design their own pieces.” Her most treasured

bespoke jewel? “An eternity band made with baguettes which my then partner (now husband) created for me with a friend, who is a gemologist. The diamonds are angled and very delicately set. What made it even more special is that he noticed I was obsessed with that particular cut at the moment, and worked with someone I love to make this ring for me” she shares.

In India especially, personalisation has been a hallmark of the jewellery industry for years now. “There is a shift in the styles we are seeing be customised, from western catalogue designs to jewels that have a more empowering and modern design”, observes Arundhati De Sheth. While engagement rings are the most frequently customised pieces of jewellery, customised diamond baubles make for a great gift through every season in life.

6. Diamonds Are Everyone’s Best Friend
Self expression is agnostic to gender and the world of jewellery is no exception. Fine jewellery brands including Tiffany’s and Lorraine Schwartz are increasingly creating non-binary collections which can be styled by everyone. In India especially, we come from a rich heritage where maharajas sported rare jewellery and wore their diamonds in celebration.

Artist Interpretation of Tiffany & Co.’s  Lock Bracelets

“I’ve never viewed jewellery as gender-specific to begin with”, says Divyak D’Souza. 

“Jewellery should be something that every individual should invest in to express their personal style. Be it a statement piece or something subtle, men shouldn’t shy away from owning their style.”

He recommends taking cues from pop singer Harry Styles along with actors Timothee Chalamet and closer to home Ranveer Singh on how to wear diamonds.