The Vanderbilts’ Gilded Age Glamour Heads to Geneva Auction
From Gladys Moore Vanderbilt’s Cartier tiara brooch to the world-class Vanderbilt Sapphire, Phillips Geneva Auction:
V presents an unparalleled opportunity to own a piece of American aristocratic history.
Published: September 18, 2025
Written by: Grant Mobley
Few names in American history conjure images of wealth, elegance, and social power like the Vanderbilts. Their palatial mansions defined the Gilded Age, their art collections shaped cultural institutions, and Vanderbilt jewelry remains a symbol of glamour and ambition. This November, collectors will have the rare opportunity to own a piece of that legacy as Phillips Auction House unveils the Vanderbilt Family Jewels as the leading highlight of The Geneva Jewels Auction: V, taking place at the Hôtel President in Geneva on November 10, 2025.
Meet the Expert
- Benoît Repellin is the Worldwide Head of Jewellery of Phillips Auction House, headquartered in Geneva.
- Before joining Phillips in February 2022, he spent nearly a decade at Sotheby’s Auction House, where he rose through the ranks from the catalog department, all the way to director and head of the Magnificent Jewels sales.
Vanderbilt Jewelry:
A Dynasty in Diamonds
The Vanderbilt name is synonymous with America’s rise in the late 19th century. With fortunes made in railroads and shipping, Cornelius Vanderbilt and his family helped define American aristocracy. The Vanderbilt jewelry pieces, designed by the likes of Tiffany & Co. and Cartier, were not just ornaments but statements of social standing and cultural aspiration. Passed down through generations, these pieces became family heirlooms carrying both personal stories and the broader narrative of an era when the United States was eager to rival Europe’s long-established elite.
The jewels on offer once belonged to Gladys Moore Vanderbilt, Countess Széchényi (1886–1965). The youngest daughter of Cornelius II and Alice Gwynne Vanderbilt, Gladys epitomized the transatlantic unions of her era, marrying Count László Széchényi of Hungary in 1908. Her marriage, like those of many Gilded Age heiresses, merged American wealth with European titles and bridged continents with diamonds and aristocratic ambition. The Russell family from HBO’s hit series The Gilded Age is based on the Vanderbilt family. Gladys Russel, played by Taissa Farmiga in the show, similarly married a European royal, the fictional Duke of Buckingham, in an exchange of money of status between the couple.
The Vanderbilt Sapphire:
A Belle Époque Treasure
The undisputed star of the Vanderbilt jewelry sale is The Vanderbilt Sapphire, a 42.68-carat sugarloaf Kashmir sapphire of extraordinary “Royal Blue” color, mounted by Tiffany & Co. and framed by old-cut diamonds in a delicate openwork brooch. Gifted initially by Alice Vanderbilt to her daughter Gladys, the jewel represents not only a pinnacle of Belle Époque design but also one of the rarest sapphires in existence. Its vivid hue and exceptional clarity place it among the finest Kashmir sapphires ever to appear at auction.
Cartier and the Vanderbilt Tiaras
The collection also features an extraordinary brooch by Cartier, once part of a tiara commissioned in 1908 by Alice Vanderbilt as a wedding gift for Gladys. The tiara, designed as sprays of lilies with interchangeable diamonds and amethysts, could be dismantled and worn as individual brooches, an ingenious example of Belle Époque versatility. One of the surviving brooches, centered on a 4.55-carat old-cut pear-shaped diamond, finally comes to market.
This piece of Vanderbilt jewelry embodies the artistry of Cartier at the turn of the century, when design was evolving to meet the tastes of heiresses who wanted both grandeur and adaptability in their jewels.
Vanderbilt Jewelry: A Collection of History and Refinement
Beyond these headline pieces, the Vanderbilt jewelry sale includes a range of refined treasures spanning the late 19th to early 20th centuries. Highlights include:
Cartier 8 Day traveling clock, with GS monogram, and engraved, presented to her on Christmas in 1913, estimate: $5,000 – $8,000
Diamond comb, early 20th century, estimate: $3,000 – $5,000
Cartier gold, ruby and diamond wristwatch, estimate: $3,000 – $5,000
Diamond and emerald brooch, late 19th century, estimate: $5,000 – $8,000
Cartier gold, ruby and diamond vanity case with the monogram of Gladys Vanderbilt, estimate: $8,000 – $12,000
Together, these pieces tell the story of Gladys Vanderbilt as a Countess and as a woman of her time. A woman surrounded by luxury, art, and objects that reflected both personal milestones and the grandeur of her lineage.
Benoît Repellin, Worldwide Head of Jewellery, said, “The Vanderbilt Family Jewels stand as the purest embodiment of Gilded Age elegance – pieces of extraordinary beauty, historical resonance, and fascinating provenance. We are deeply privileged to present these iconic creations at our Geneva Jewels Auction, which promises to capture the imagination of collectors worldwide. This comes at a time when the market is particularly enthusiastic for period jewels – Belle Époque and early-20th-century masterpieces are in especially high demand – reflecting a broader appetite for rare signed and historically rich pieces.”
Why the Vanderbilt Jewelry Auction Matters Now
In today’s market, provenance matters as much as anything else. Collectors increasingly seek jewels that carry history, identity, and cultural resonance. The Vanderbilt name, paired with the signatures of historic jewelry houses, positions this collection at the very heart of that demand. These are not only exquisite works of jewelry; they are artifacts of an era when America was defining itself as a cultural equal to Europe.
Also, gems like The Vanderbilt Sapphire are exceptionally rare. The market almost never sees Kashmir sapphires of this quality. When combined with the provenance of this magnitude, they become once-in-a-generation opportunities for collectors and institutions alike.
A Legacy Up for Bidding
As the gavel falls in Geneva this November, bidders will compete for fragments of history. To own a piece of Vanderbilt jewelry is to step into the narrative of the Gilded Age, to connect with a dynasty that helped shape both America’s cultural identity and Europe’s aristocratic traditions.
For those who believe that jewelry is more than adornment—that it is history, art, and legacy crystallized—this auction promises to be one of the most significant events of the year.
