You’ve Never Seen Cartier Like This: 350 Rare Jewels Unveiled in London

A new exhibition at the V&A, in partnership with Cartier, aims to do more than share the history of the iconic brand. The curators Rachel Garrahan and Helen Molesworth have revealed the very throughline of modern jewellery design. Experts from across the industry unearthed over 350 treasures from collections rarely, if ever, on public view. This is the first Cartier exhibit in the UK in over 30 years, with pieces spanning from the turn of the century through present day.

Historic London Roots

The relationship between Cartier and the city of London dates to 1902 when the maison opened its first London premises on New Burlington Street. The opening momentously coincided with the coronation of King Edward VII, who would later grant Cartier a royal warrant in 1904. 1909 saw the opening of the New Bond Street location, which now serves as the London flagship.

Jacques Cartier was the driving force in London, traveling extensively to source gems, meet clients, and find inspiration. This cultural magpie aesthetic came to the fore in the 1920s when the Tutti Frutti collection emerged, along with an obsession with Egyptology, and the growing influence of India. This created a new standard for what was considered desirable in jewellery.  Previously, jewellery styles sought to replicate royal pieces.  

Royal Connections and Regal Jewels

Royal inspiration did indeed persist in some ways. In 1937, a desire for tiaras hit critical mass, and Cartier created almost 30 for stock and by special order. Included in the exhibit is the Halo Tiara, which Princess Kate wore on her wedding day, lent by Queen Elizabeth II. Also on display is the Scroll Tiara, owned by Mary Scott Townsend, which was worn by Clementine Churchill, wife of British Prime Minister Winston Churchill, to the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II. In a move that showcases the timelessness of the design, the singer Rihanna wore the piece on the cover of W Magazine in 2016.

The Legendary Williamson Diamond Brooch

Another jaw-dropping piece in the exhibition was lent by His Majesty the King: the Williamson Diamond Brooch. This piece is a particular favorite of Helen Molesworth, a co-curator of the exhibit. “You’ve got everything in it that makes a spectacular jewel,” Molesworth says.

“ The diamond itself was given to the Queen–then Princess Elizabeth–on the eve of her 1947 wedding, as an engagement present. She had it cut in London, and in 1953, the year of her coronation, she had it mounted by Cartier London. The diamond itself is special because it has that lovely provenance, colour, and cut, but it’s also mounted in a brooch that is pure Cartier. People don’t realize how big it is. It’s the size of your hand!” 

Accompanying the jewel are a range of drawings. Molesworth explains the significance: “We have an archive that has never been seen before called the Frederick Mew Archive,” she said. “He was a designer for Cartier London from the 1930s until the 1960s, and we found the original drawings of the different iterations of the Williamson brooch. 

“There’s one that’s been circled with a ring that says ‘approved’, so we know the queen chose that as the drawing for the brooch. People rarely see the Williamson Diamond, they would’ve never seen these drawings before–it’s a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to see them together.” In Queen Elizabeth II’s lifetime, though, the brooch was a frequently worn jewel. The reason for this may lie in its provenance. “Royal sentimentality informed the way they chose jewellery,” says Caroline de Guitat, surveyor of the Royal Collection Trust. 

The Maharaja of Patiala

According to Pierre Rainero, Cartier’s style and heritage director, the exhibit showcases how jewellery and architecture reflect the tastes, mores, and ideals of the wearer. “It can be a symbol of power, it can be a symbol of wealth, a social statement,” he said. “But also a symbol for your personality.”  

One of the most significant commissions in the maison’s history was for the Maharaja of Patiala, and the exhibit showcases two iconic pieces from that storied collection. India was a source of inspiration, a source for fabulous jewels and for enduring relationships – particularly with Indian royals. “I think of the Cartier family as being a combination of Indiana Jones and academics,” Molesworth quips.

The Patiala necklace is traditionally Indian in design but set in platinum, as was the fashion in Europe at the time. The piece originally centered on the 234.65-carat yellow De Beers diamond and was worn as a set with a choker featuring white and yellow diamonds. The necklace was rediscovered in 1998, having been missing since Indian Independence in 1947. The Cartier Collection acquired and restored the piece, replacing the missing stones with replicas.

A New Way to Experience Cartier Jewellery

A sprawling exhibition of jewels can be both mesmerizing and overwhelming. The goal of the designer and architect, Asif Khan, was to slow down the visitor and introduce them to the natural world. In the space dedicated to panthers, he created a stenography of a forest, representing miniatures such as bonsai trees, Mughal art and dollhouses he lived with as a child.

In the room that contains the royal jewellery, Khan uses light to transcend geography–the red light of Delhi at sunset and the blue of Windsor Castle at daybreak bridge the span of the collection. A remarkable achievement, considering he is colourblind. The final room, which features the collection of tiaras, is designed to evoke a waltz, recalling the balls Cartier would host for clients–set to the tune of Shostakovich.   

Cartier jewellery is known for its bravura of scale. The bracelets once owned by Gloria Swanson are a good example of the new volume and techniques introduced in the 1930s, which link organic references present in both jewellery and architecture. Swanson wore these stunning pieces in her personal life as well as in her most iconic role in Sunset Boulevard.

Why the Exhibition Matters

The results of the exhibition is a stunning display of how the maison has served as a cultural bellwether and arbiter of good taste since its inception. “It’s hundreds of years of history, that continuation of success, that reinvention, the legacy that is Cartier,” Molesworth expounds. She describes the exhibition as “a study of art history and a study of the multitude of influences and inspirations that have kept a business going for generations.”

“What makes it so successful?” she adds. “Brilliant design, brilliant materials, brilliant craftsmanship, and brilliant people.” How many exhibitions can claim the support of both His Majesty the King and Kim Kardashian? This one is not to be missed.

The exhibit is open from April 12 to November at the V&A Museum’s Sainsbury Gallery in London.